Yes you can get it welded, and removing the head cover to get it welded will also give you an opportunity to put in a Versy head plug and inspect the cam/rockers for wear.

Or.....you can clean the area really well, then put a heat shrink tube on the through bolt and apply JB Weld to replace the broken area.  Put large washers on the end to form the edges of the JB Weld.  Position the engine so the broken area is straight up, and then apply the JB Weld to build up the area.  JB Weld continues to flow for a considerable length of time, and you may need to use some modeling clay to build up the edges of the repair area to prevent the JB Weld from flowing out of the repair area.  After the JB Weld has cured for a full day you can pull the bolt out of the heat shrink tubing, then take a pair of pliers and roll the tubing out of the JB Weld.....as the JB Weld does not stick to the smooth tubing very well.  Then take the washers off the side....you may have to heat them up a bit to get the JB Weld to release.  Then sand/file/grind the JB Weld to create a decent looking surface, and paint it silver (or use it as-is since the tank and mount will probably hide it).  (I did this repair to a Ninja engine that I bought from a crashed bike......and it is still working fine).  

Or......you likely can just use it as-is if you are on a budget.  The top clamp will still have pretty good hold once the bolt is tightened....and there are 4 other motor mount bolts to hold the engine in the frame.

Or.....you can buy another head cover (although I believe they are machined in a set and should be used as a pair).

NOTE:  I would never put a used engine in a bike without taking the head cover off, inspecting the cam/rockers.....or resealing the head plug and the head cover.  It is just so much easier to do that when the engine is out of the frame.

SoC, if you are still planning to do the frame stretch you might want to go with having that welded. The frame on a Savage is made from really thin tubing, about the same thickness as exhaust pipe. That top mount ties the engine to the frame and stiffens the entire assembly.  

With a frame stretch, and the required longer mount plates, the leverage applied will be different. I would have it welded just for the peace of mind knowing that it will be stronger.

SoC wrote on 04/24/18 at 20:03:39:
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To me, this screams that this frame has been sprung, tweaked or twisted in some way.  The way the headstay has been pulled that far off the motor doesn't look right.  I would start by loosening the bolts to see if the mounting plates drop anywhere near the original mounting positoin.  If it does, then take the head off and get it welded.  You can try JB weld, but I'm not sure it will withstand the sort of vibrations the top of the motor goes through.  Especially if the frame is sprung.

ohiomoto wrote on 04/25/18 at 09:56:29:


My thought as well.

Again thanks to all who have taken the time and effort to comment. So maybe the JB fix is questionable, I'm not dismissing it, particularly if re-inforced, but that wasn't my intent in asking the original question. My concern was if the weld was done on the motor with the head attached could/would there, might be issues, with heat or with grounding the entire block with the head attached for welding purposes. Though I have a decent mig welder and hack at it, I not a certified tech and lack the intricate knowledge and skill to take this on myself.

So again, thanks to all.