If your placing diesel or oil in the cylinder an compression is not going higher it may not be the rings but you may have damaged /burnt valves or valves set to the wrong clearance (to tight)that are not fully closing .      P.S. It's always good to check the front drive pulley that should be torqued to 94 ft/lbs  as this will make noise(hitting the guard ) and can damage the main shaft and pulley.(nightmare & big bucks)

So I have attempted to wiggle potentially stuck rings loose with diesel, atf, 40w motor oil... Absolutely no consistent change in compression.

I started to try to get somewhat critical of the motions involved in this ring wiggle procedure to maybe identify some endplay in the rotating assembly. Back and forth 1/4 to 1/2 * with my t-handle on the crank yields noises from the front of the case like slack it being taken up with a light tap when it runs out. Not ruling anything out yet.

I did discover... without the aid of a leakdown test per se`... That there is significant blow by venting the crankcase. I happened to have my flip flopped foot near enough to the inspection port that I felt a gust of "wind" coming from it while cranking on the gauge. On further investigation, there is a suspect amount of air moving without question. The lack of change in compression, coupled with the forced volume of air venting the crankcase tells me I will probably be replacing a burnt piston. I may also find heat soaked exhaust valves that got sticky lips... Obviously won't be sure until I crack it open.

I did quite a bit of reading about going oversize and pondered weather I really want to go down that rabbit hole, or just go back to as close to stock as I can get. I have decided that if there is indeed cylinder damage that warrants the jug getting cut... I'm going as big as I can. If the jug is ok as it is... it goes back together as is. I'll go ahead and port/polish here and there to open her up but that's about as far as I'm going with it.

I will start a new post for the teardown/rebuild if anyone is interested.
Is there a trick to posting images on this forum? I got youtube links figured out but notice a lot of folks seem to have issues with broken pic links.

I'd be interested in a teardown/build thread. Not sure about the photos

It has been sitting still pretty much since my last post.
I have been beyond busy playing catch up and recovery with my bees post Hurricane Harvey paying us a visit.

Ended up with another bike falling in my lap and have been putting any free time and energy into it... 2003 Yamaha yzf600r that a buddy bought brand spankin new. Immaculate condition for its age and 99,590 miles on the clock lol. Only needs minor tlc.

So I should not worry about the rotational play/clunk ... gotcha
Still need to borrow my partner's inspection camera and have a look down in the jug.
So it's still possible that I just have a valve issue since I let the crank case displacement change fool me lol... *facepalm*

There was still no change in compression the last time I checked it... but that was a couple weeks before harvey hit.
When I have not been working on bee stuff or the new bike, I have been getting chainsaws and generators up and running for people all over the dang county. Things seem to be starting to settle back down though and I got the itch to fix stuff and go ride!

Got my Clymer's ordererd but it's stuck in hurricane shipping traffic jam stoopidness lol.

I'm 100ft or so above sea level most of the time.
I pulled the left cover to have a peek and I found the "play" I was hearing in the intermediate starter gear engagement.
What sort of puller does the stator wheel like to get at the flywheel nut?
I have a three way and various jaw type sets in 2 and 3 jaw.

Get it on compression and pull the plug and oil fill cap.
Air in the cylinder.
Listen to intake
Exhaust
And if it's blowing out the oil hole, piston is perforated.

I have had some more time to thingy around with it the past couple days...
Just have not reported back here about it lol.
I have everything loose from the motor at this point but the drive belt.

I checked the area of the flywheel, nothing seems loose. I do not yet have the proper puller to remove the rotor though... I am trying to refrain from ordering one.. because the moment I do... I will need it and be waiting on it.
I don't want to need it lol.

I'm still hoping for a tight valve adjustment or some carbon keeping a valve from seating. It is way more dirtier in the exhaust port than it should be for 4k miles.
The cam chain tensioner does not appear to be damaged, and is working to keep tension on the chain. It looks to have marks on the piston from those moments where it pushed out and clicked into the next ratchet tooth. Past the face of the housing there are about 2 1/2 "marks" visible. If I tug on the piston to put more pressure on the chain It jussst almost clicks into the next tooth.

From what I can see thus far of the cam... There is no apparent scoring or other visible damage. The valve stems look fine, no obvious bends or cracking and they look to be intact lol.
I have not yet pulled the head cover, I understand I need to take a clearance measurement between the rocker pad and valve stem before I pull it... Is that correct (assuming It would not be possible with the cover removed as it takes the exhaust rocker with it?) Anyway... I'm kind of stuck there until I can locate one of my dang feeler gauge sets lol. Reloading room... engine room, machine room... who knows lol.

Oil... I wanna say I put rotella t in it because I had it on the shelf...
The stuff that came out felt like it was 50% or more of that lucas crank case sludge crap, and it was as black as the oil that comes out of my 7.3 powerstroke diesel after 7k miles. It stank like differential oil... Just not quite as bad...

So I found my feeler gauge set I most trust in the reloading room...
Exhaust valve on the clutch side of the engine was at a perfect .003".
Exhaust valve on the other side was a tight .002"...
Guess what happened when I adjusted the valve...

Checked compression with jumper cables on a battery and just jumped the terminals on the solenoid...  120psi within the first few revolutions...

Should i just put it back together and *facepalm* or keep going and pull the head cover to be sure?