EDIT: just want to note that I've only just realised that if I spell calliper with only one "l" which is what I did, it is corrected by my spell checker without my realising to 'caliber'. Doh!

Had a look through the brake pad thread but there's a photo missing. Not sure if I should grease the brake caliber pins, the ones behind the rubber boots.

Pressing the callipers they seem to move freely on the pins, so I was thinking of leaving them. I'd freshen the grease if I could work out how to get the boots off but I don't want to force it in case I break the rubber boots.

To grease the pins how do I get the boots off, on the shot with the blue arrow there is a rubber cap boot, then there's a boot what's that about? There isn't one on the other side, it's just solid metal.

On the red arrow, am I supposed to loosen this nut or don't touch it in order to grease the pins.

On the piston shot, there is very light corrosion probably because we rarely ride in the rain, but I'm not sure if it requires a major disassembly to clean this, or if the piston is meant to come right out?

Also when I push the piston back before putting the pads in, how far back should I push it, is it meant to be flush? At the moment I can't push it back any further with my hands, but I'm not even sure if it's meant to be further in anyway. I don't want to put a pad on it and push it in with a G clamp if it's not meant to be in further.

Any advice appreciated.

@Dave, that's great, it's dark here now but I went out and had a look with a flashlight and I can see the two parts you refer to, I did not twig that it could be pulled apart.

Yeah I will be changing the fluid because it's 2 years old anyway. I've already got a hose attached to the bleed nipple and since I've got 10 times more brake fluid than I need I'll just flush plenty through and use the trick mentioned in the brake pad thread about putting the other end of the hose in the reservoir after the fluid has been flushed completely and let any air bubble out the end of the hose while the submerged hose sucks in more fluid. That's a pretty neat trick.

Regarding the piston, OK so I'll put the old brake pad against it and put a G clamp on it and just screw it down till it retracts fully, that should be fine yeah?

....the rubber seal should fold and also be flush.

Are you referring to a seal on the caliber piston? or are you referring to the boots? I know there is some kind of seal on the piston but I can't see it!

Ha, OK. Finally, I've got some lithium soap based wheel bearing grease with added Molybdenum disulfide that says it will withstand hi temps of disk brakes that should be ok for the pad pins? What about smearing a thin film of grease around the outside of the calliper before it's pushed back in, is that a good thing to do?

Okie dokie will be looking forward to finishing this tomorrow, I'll see if I can make a video of pulling it apart for the tech section. I'm surprised none of this was mentioned in the brake thread. To a newbie it's not at all obvious that the calliper can be pulled apart to get to the pins.

btw, to give you an idea how much we like to use engine braking, we got 12,000 kms from the OEM pads!

Gary_in_NJ wrote on 06/07/17 at 05:09:51:


Ditto!!

I use Sil-Glyde silicone grease ..  it won't deteriorate the rubber.