You got to remember these guys ride a lot of bikes and more than likely are used to sport bikes that they stunt.
The savage front end can be a little whippy if you are riding rough roads.
There is a fork brace that improves the stability if you feel you need it.

Thanks for the replies, Vers and jc.  

Here's the link to the article I read: http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/650cc-class-motorcycles-rebirth-class

I hadn't thought of the reviewers' background as being sport bike oriented, but of course it is. Good point.  

The Savage is a budget bike. Accordingly it uses damping Rod forks and twin chamber shocks. From Race Tech's website:

Damping rods while inexpensive to manufacture have major limitations. To create compression damping, oil is forced through a fixed orifice. Forcing oil through a hole creates very little resistance to flow at low vertical wheel velocities as when hitting a dip or gully or applying the front brakes. This allows the forks to shoot through the travel fairly easily, diving or bottoming in these situations. On the other hand when the wheel hits something square edge, especially at speed, it needs a lot of oil to pass through the damping holes very quickly. Unfortunately the nature of forcing oil through a hole is that as the wheel velocity increases the damping force increases with the square of the velocity. In other words if you double the velocity you get four times the force. This means the hole basically "hydraulic locks" resulting in a harsh spike. Damping rods give the worst of both worlds; they are both too mushy and too harsh at the same time.

Because of the rake of the S40 forks, almost every movement of the forks is what would be considered a high-rate event. In order to provide low-rate damping, Suzuki had to oversize the orifice in the damping rod. This results in poor low-speed damping; i.e. a lot of fork dive with the application of brakes and a very “busy ride” on smooth pavement (you’re basically relying on the spring to do all of the work – and a spring doesn’t have a natural ability to dampen its movement). To compensate, and due to the long stroke during these types of events, Suzuki had to overfill the forks to allow sufficient oil to travel through the damping orifice. Having such a small air-gap restricts the amount of fork travel during high-rate events, causing the forks to hydro-lock. It’s a no-win situation. If the damping rod had a “normal” orifice the forks would be too harsh for low-speed events and still not provide adequate high-speed damping.

As a result of this compromised set-up, the forks are either too soft (slow rate events) or too harsh (high-rate events).

If you want to see what a fork brace is and how to install, go here: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1471017987

Did I really need it to make the bike any better or safer, not really. BUT, I do get a little excited in the twisties and wanted it for whatever added stability it offered (may only be very marginal...) and I have been pleased with it.  If all you do is cruise and this is your first bike, just enjoy it for now and come back to this in a year or two when you find yourself riding aggressively in the mountains, etc.  If your daily commute has you on a lot of bumpy roads with bridge/overpass connections, tar snakes, etc. this may be something to have on your short list as it is claimed to help keep the front end more stable in those bumpy and sketchy road conditions.

Floppy?  Well, the fork brace does help when you hit that hole that wasn't there yesterday.  And slow speed handling practice never goes out of style.

Or you can 'politely' express the viewpoint that sport bikes are too 'twitchy'.  Never liked twitchy horses either.

But wait, if you like wrenching, it really can get much better...

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1421689358

I just  want to ride....  
Be well.

Thanks ohiomoto.  I do remember it was interesting trying to get used to the stock bars with tall risers.  So I installed clubman bars horns up [upside down?] with the reused short top riser sections.  Now there's no more noticeable wrist torque and it much more easily goes where I push/lean it even slowly; like a motorcycle.  Well... it works for me, and I can always flip them over if I want.  

And thanks for reminding me of the "budget bike" truth, Gary.
There are just certain realities that have to be faced about the bike's capabilities. And that's OK!

There are a lot of compelling reasons I picked her as my first bike—
commuter-ability, fit for me (I'm 5'2"), light-weight, highway capable if necessary, and easy to get parts for / simplicity of design = less steps to repair.

A lot of pros!