Which way did you spin the motor?
The crankshaft and wheels all rotate the same way.

Then the only way I can envision slack in the chain on the front side is as mentioned above, cam lobe in the
Let's Close the valve
zone. The valve spring drove the cam .
The chain isn't telling me anything.

What did you Feel as it didn't wanna rotate?
Grinding?
What did you hear?
What did you take off that is still on?
Starter?

I have now removed all relevant bolts from the valve cover, and would like a hint on how to slide out the cover. The engine is in the frame.

Which side and/or forward do you usually slide/tilt it out towards?
EDIT: NVM, I got it out easy when I took it out left side.

---

batman wrote on 04/16/17 at 18:45:20:

I'm thinking it goes back to his statement that he "used a large piece of plastic"to lock the gears when torqueing the clutch, and had a real bad time getting out ,It sounds to me like the plastic didn't hold the gears but may have got crushed and slipped between the gears,what this movement could have done to the cam chain and gears isn't clear,in my mind but I think it bares looking into.Is it possible the primary drive gear slid across the  crushed plastic one tooth and through the cam timing off?

I am 100% positive that the plastic piece held the gears.
It is a method I usually use and have originally learned from my father who usually employs a similar method. You just have to make sure the material is strong enough to not be squeezed out from between the teeth when you apply force on it, which I can see was not the case.

One of the benefits of using a softer material like plastic as opposed to (soft) metal is that it is less prone to be dropped between the time you put it in place and till you apply some real force on it, as you can "set it" in place by applying a little temporary force/torque on it.

Also... I did not have "a real hard time" getting it out, but I did have to wriggle and pry it a bit of course

The setup I used at the time (This one is staged):

Mekh wrote on 04/17/17 at 05:53:44:


I don't believe so.  There is a part of the case that prevents this on the bottom - and I am not sure how you would slide the chain over a tooth on top.  When I need to move a tooth - I take the cam out and let the upper sprocket drop down a bit.....then move the chain on the sprocket.

P.S.  Did you make SURE that the oil drive gear pin was in place????
Item #19 here: http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d32ea1f8700232d0b3d67b/clutch

The bike is currently cooling off a bit after it's initial 10 minute break-in.

It started after no more than 2-3 turns of the engine and it sounds daasm good so far

Using original exhaust in order to be able to best possible hear if anything is not sounding right. but so far it's the cleanest sound I have ever heard from this engine.  

Now I will change the oil, and oil filter and prepare for the 30 minute break-in. I have 2 fans blowing on the cylinder, which I suppose should suffice. Anyone have any feedback on this?

Mekh wrote on 04/17/17 at 11:28:03:


SOOOOO happy that you got it going and it sounds good.  

Not the way I did my break in after doing valves and rings, but everyone has their own method.
I did 600 miles on Rotella T3 with a little extra ZDDP.  Never going WOT, never leaving the RPMs the same for an exended period of time.
Doing accels and decels almost all the time.
Then changed the oil to Rotella T6 and continued the gentle treatment for another 1000 miles.