+1.  what dave said.

Dave wrote on 03/15/17 at 10:48:47:


OK - a couple comments. Regarding stewmills posts, I tried one and three already. I like the idea of what I see in his second picture -  but I don't know what that is. I feel like I could make something like that work with enough leverage and tapping with a hammer. Maybe drilling into the bolt and using a set screw with whatever this tool is. Looks like a could maybe make something like this.

My neighbor is a welder (unsure of his experience as it is not his primary profession.) He is concerned about welding around the aluminum. This will be my last resort.

God this is a stupid thing to have to deal with.

What do you guys think about these:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952...

All the auto parts stores have bolt removing sockets with teeth, but then it is a clearance issue. Anyone think these would work at an angle - with my 6" extension?

ugh...gonna explore something like that second photo that stewmills posted. Just gotta find out what the hell that is.

Yeah I'm a newb to the savage, but not a newb all together. And not cheap - just thrifty (and broke).

That's what I was thinking about. Still, Dave's method is a sure thing, and probably a lot less money too.

yeah, I already put flats on it and torqued the hell out of it with my vise grips. I don't know what this bolt is made of, but it rounds VERY easily - like butter. Maybe there is a model of Irwin locking pliers that is better suited, I have tried my curved jaw and long nose - those are the two types I own. Maybe I am incorrect in thinking that Irwin is premium and there is a better, harder, stronger set of vise grips out there.

I even put edges on a 16mm craftsman socket (17mm bolt), tapped it on the bolt securely, and clamped the vise grips on. The teeth tore through the socket and the bolt didn't budge. WTF over?

Are you sure you're going the right way?
put the wrench on the front side and push backward.  

Quote:



Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding something, but the above has me confused. If you managed to get a socket  onto the head of the bolt securely enough so that your vise grips slipped on the socket not the bolt, why didn't you try to turn the socket with a ratchet or a breaker bar?

Try warming up the engine case some with a propane torch, Keep the flame on the aluminum and keep it moving.Just warm it, don't get it too hot. Get a handle on the socket and give it a couple of sharp (not hard) raps with a hammer and see if the bolt breaks loose.

Of course if the socket won't grab then it's time for more drastic measures.


EDIT: I just went out and looked at my bike. The drain plug on mine has a 14mm head, and there is just enough room between the bolt and the frame to get a 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet or breaker bar in there. A 17mm might not fit unless you have a really short socket. I don't have a 1/4" 17mm to try, and a 3/8' drive socket and handle won't fit.

So my suggestion might not help.

hole across the head for a long hardened roll pin, wrench. done wrong this could rip the head off the bolt. or: drill up through the bolt and use an easy-out.  

So we are at that strange point of advice giving. Several good methods have been given, and one method got several responses that it was the way to go (welding a nut). The OP even said that his neighbor has welding skills. And here we are with the OP retrying failed methods.

The correct solution will take 15-20 minutes (that includes riding the bike over there) and will cost you a beer and some funny stories. You risk tearing what is left of the head off of that bolt with the other half measures.