To recap, phase 1 consisted of the following mod work to my LS650

Replaced and relocated rear turn signal and brake light.
Added Dyna muff
added one size up on main jet
replaced stock shocks with progressive 412
Added Stage 2 cam
Added 666cc big bore kit
Replaced stock headlight with brighter flashy looking aftermarket unit.

Assessment after 1 month riding the bike with these improvements. I'm happy with the extra power and the spread of the powerband the engine gives now. The ride has improved hugely both in overall handling and dealing with rough or wet surfaces. I no longer have to ride around with my high-beam on after dark. The low beam is plenty bright now. conversely my new high beam is somewhat weaker and more limited in width compared to the original. This has much to do with the box like shape of the new headlight and proves to be of little bother as I rarely need the high beam anyways.

So I'm on to planning the next phase of upgrades for Thumpy. With so many complaints rectified I find fewer things are required to make the bike more to my liking. One exception is brakes - which was an original complaint. I need to address this.
So the 1st item on this list is the Ryca big brake kit.
Folks here have mentioned long-term reliability improvements concerning the cam chain. This was gone over thoroughly and found to be in spec with Suzuki's recommendations. However, with all of the money invested so far (roughly $900) I can't help but think some more peace of mind won't hurt at all.
So a versy is going on this list.

The stiffer shocks make the low speed riding a bit rougher so I am considering some improvement with the seat. Suggestions welcomed here. I notice the cost of new seats OEM or aftermarket is alot to swallow so homemade remedies would be great.

Out of idle speculation and because I'm not one to leave things well enough alone, what gains can I expect from exhaust port massaging, a 2" header and a high flow air filter?
I've currently got the stock header, carb, airbox and filter.
Or should I just leave the engine alone now that I'm happier with it?

Any other ideas for making the bike an all around better bike to ride?

2" header sounds a bit large,1 1/2" is what's generally used,to large a pipe will allow the exhaust gas and revision waves to slow down and hurt your power at higher rpm(the gases cool to quickly) ......I'd look at Oldfellow's air filter in the Tech Section if you still have your stock air box as a cheap,and easy course to a very good Hi-pro filter.

Hey batman thanks for the tip with Oldfellows filter. It's easy and inexpensive.

Lancer, with the carb change I'm worried about losing the street ability of the bike. For example, when I raced hare scrambles on trikes I got a race carb for my ATC200X and regretted it every time I hit the woods because it was too jumpy + grabby for that kind of riding. It would have been great on a dirt track but I never rode those. It was an expensive lesson for me at the time working a summer job to pay for it too. My worry is a racing carb is going to make my bike a pain to negotiate city traffic with. I realize my stock carb is a bit sluggish but this helps with city drivability.

Correct me if I'm wrong. Performance carbs just improve throttle response and not overall horsepower?
I ask because that was what i noticed back with the 200x. It snapped and grabbed like mad but really didn't seem to have any more power...

Ok so 2" bad, 1.5" good. So why does Mac Performance sell this item?
http://shop.macperformance.com/Suzuki-Savage-Boulevard-650-1986-2016-2-Headpi...
If 2" is too big shouldn't they know that?

I ran the stock carb for a year with my modified engine, and then installed one of Lancers VM36 carb kits.  The engine did not become jumpy or jerky - but the throttle response was quicker and a bit different.  When I first put it on I was trying to hold 60mph exactly so I could calibrate the Vapor Trail Tech speedometer while using the GPS to hold a steady 60 mph.  It was very hard to hold the speed at exactly 60, and the speed would drop to 59 or jump up to 61......but I never tried that with the stock carb and it might also be difficult to hold the speed at exactly 60 on the GPS....it could be that the GPS was jumpy and the bike speed wasn't?

The VM36 doesn't turn the bike into a race bike - but it does require that you become a bit better rider to use it smoothly.  The stock carb has a vacuum operated slide, and if you suddenly "wack open" the throttle the vacuum in the venturi will drop suddenly, and the CV carb drops the slide and allows the vacuum to build and the engine will accelerate smoothly....and this is what causes the small delay in the movement of your wrist vs. the response from the engine.  With the VM carb you should "roll open" the throttle at a bit slower rate and allow the vacuum to remain consistent as you accelerate......it may only take a second to go from idle to full throttle, and after riding it for a while it will become instinct.  The other place that you need to learn to use your wrist is when you are decelerating or accelerating and shifting - you don't want to snap the throttle all the way closed.....or you will get a backfire (or a lot of them).  Just roll the throttle toward the closed position part way, and there will be little or no backfire.  When you allow the throttle to close completely the only fuel to the engine is coming from the idle circuit, and the mixture goes very lean....and the exhaust gets noisy.  You can easily control this by just opening the throttle up a tiny bit.......that is what the TEV valve on the stock CV carb is supposed to do - you just have to do it manually by rolling on a tiny bit of throttle.  If you want noisy while you are decelerating you just close the throttle....if you want to be more peaceful you just open up a bit of throttle until the noise goes away......after a bit of riding with your new VM carb this all becomes instinct and is part of the fun of riding this big, primitive single.

I like my VM carb, and it is a worthwhile upgrade - but I made so many changes at the same time I really can't say for sure that it makes the bike quicker or give a higher top speed....but it does make the engine more responsive and it gives you more control over the way the engine is running.

LANCER wrote on 02/02/17 at 14:43:46:


Lancer I looked at Gary in NJ's thread about this and it looks as though he's focused on a Ryca conversion type deal. Those have lowered front ends don't they?
Are his mods even applicable to a normal LS650?

[quote author=495150554D51405450525C390 link=1486063480/0#8 date=1486154687]LANCER wrote on 02/02/17 at 14:43:46:

Lancer I looked at Gary in NJ's thread about this and it looks as though he's focused on a Ryca conversion type deal. Those have lowered front ends don't they?
Are his mods even applicable to a normal LS650?

As it says in the thread, the mod is for all LS650's. Just disregard the instructions for modifying/making a new upper t-clamp. Given the rake of a stock LS, I would still drill the low speed compression holes in the GVE as described in the thread.

One thing that has been nagging me is now confirmed to not be my imagination. I paid close attention to it riding to work and back yesterday.
When cruising along in 3rd and then rolling the throttle all the way open the engine revs up as expected but for a full one, one thousand there is no increase in speed. In the following second the bike starts to accelerate but not at a rate that corresponds to revs - lagging. By the 3rd second it begins to pull like a 2 stroke dirt bike and I have to hang on tight.
Is this from clutch slippage?

If so what are my options here?

Between 12 and 12.5mm works for me.