clutch push rod, comes in three lengths.
I think the middle length is stock, but they're cheap.  get all three.

oops, you want the other thing.

release cam 23263-24b01

get the o-ring for the case seal too.  09280-07004

Right guys IV ended up having to get a new clutch basket for the savage soaked plates in oil over night fitted it. Also fitted new cam release.Borrowed a torque wrench to tighten the four bolts up and all it did was keep tightening. So iv had to result in tightening by hand until nipped with a quarter of a turn.crankcase on connect cable pull clutch in kick in gear back wheel just stays locked up whilst clutch is still pulled in. IV done this process over and over again keep nipping the four bolts up bit by bit each time. It's as if the clutch cable or lever arm isn't pushing the clutch plates in far enough.there is definitely tension on the cam release I'm sure of it. Iv really got to the point now where I wanna boot the nuts out of it. IV got too much time and money in  this bike now to just let her go as a project. Where am I going wrong

Can you get it in neutral?
Will it roll?
If not, pull the plug. If you can't roll it in neutral with the plug out, it's not the clutch, it's the transmission.
Are you saying you never got the nut holding the clutch basket tight?
You might wind up pulling the clutch  and trying to roll it.
Will it roll either way or at all? 1/2"?Any clunking?
How tight is the belt? Is it possible something is jammed under it and stuck against the case? Is the rear brake adjusted tight?

I don't no what u mean by remove the spider to knock it from side to side??? Had the the bike hoisted up so back wheels off the floor the back wheel turns fine when in neutral but with the clutch pulled in and kicked in gear the back wheel will only turn a 1/4 turn it's acting as if the clutch isn't pulled in. So IV filled her back up with oil and  going to heat her up with revs on and slam it into gear to c if it releases the plates. I did buy a complete new clutch basket soaked it in oil over nyt so surely that definitely set up right now thanks.

bobbertom wrote on 02/11/17 at 04:46:36:


That is a horrible approach.  If it is assembled correctly, the clutch will release easily.  You must have assembled something wrong.

If you want to try the "muscle" approach....find a big open area with no obstacles or a street with no traffic.  This does require some riding skill and being comfortable riding a bike that will not stop unless you stall the engine, and if you encounter an obstacle you will not be able to stop the bike easily.  Start the bike up and get it warm, then while the bike is running push the bike as fast as you can, and jump on and put the bike in 1st gear.  The bike will be moving at a speed somewhere around 9 - 10 mph at idle....while you are riding give the bike some throttle, pull int the clutch lever, and apply the back brake.  If the clutch won't break free it is time to take it apart and see what you have done wrong. (My trials motorcycle was a bit finicky when the clutch plates got polished....on a trials bike you control traction by slipping the clutch.  After a year of clutch slipping, the clutch didn't want to release if the bike sat for a couple of days without being ridden.  I could start the bike, push off with my right foot and click the bike into first gear with my left foot, and ride in my hay field while pulling in the clutch and applying the rear brake....and it took about 10 seconds for the clutch to release.  About once a year I had to take the clutch apart and scuff the plates to remove the shine....and then the clutch would work normal again.....it was all part of the maintenance required on a trials bike).