No problem getting the screws out. Took the seat and tank off and could get to the top of the carb. Best tip I learnt on here was to file the tip off a number two phillips head screwdriver until you can feel the driver seat snuggly into the screw (the screws are JIS).
I had to start one stubborn one off with a multi-grip. Luckily I could get them onto it.
File a screwdriver for the screws that hold in the plate that covers the needle and the spacer too. They're down the guts of tube with the diaphragm on it. The tube comes out so you don't have to have a go at them in situ. I can't remember what size screwdriver (maybe #1 phillips). I almost stripped one of them using a standard phillips head! I managed to get it after filing the point of the driver - it makes a huge difference.
The clip was on the middle notch, so I moved it down to the bottom one. That makes the top of the needle poke further through the spacer (same effect as reducing the thickness of the spacer).
I had the 55 pilot in before I did the needle, but realised I had an exhaust leak. So after I did the needle, I returned the pilot to stock 52.5 and sorted out the muffler connection. The bike runs really well now. I'll run at this setup for a while and see how she goes.
I took photos as I worked. If you wanna see anything for reference just let me know.
Keep in mind, I'm an absolute Noob (In fact, there is nobody Noobier). I've been learning from the forum and having a go. Some more experienced guys will have more to offer
eau de sauvage wrote on 01/04/17 at 00:56:42:@IslandRoad,
I see that I must have the same set up as you regarding the notched slide needle, therefore I have a couple of questions.
I see you did not remove the carb to get to the needle, did you have any difficulty removing the Philips head screws without an impact driver. What notch position was being used when you opened it up, and what notch did you settle on. Also did you end up going back to the 55 pilot. thx.