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Street Tracker Project finished (sort of) (Read 319 times)
carguyz
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #15 - 12/13/16 at 10:18:14
 
The mid controls are from an old Yamaha Enduro bike. The foot pegs and side stand were installed as a unit. Just welded some tabs on the frame and the rest was just a matter of adjusting bolts nuts and spacers. I used the original Suzuki Brake pedal. The shifter was off another Suzuki street bike. It’s an odd 11-spline unit, hard to find.

The key to the mid controls is having a high exhaust pipe. The stock low exhaust system interferes with the location of the right side peg. The only high exhaust pipe available that I know of is from Ryca, kind of pricey. They sell tracker and scrambler kits but for some odd reason these have the rear sets like on the café racer. Doesn’t make sense to me. A proper dirt bike has the foot pegs right under the engine.

Here is a pic of the foot peg assembly.


John in Kalifornia
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CT1_FOOTPEG.JPG
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #16 - 12/13/16 at 10:47:56
 
Dave's advice is right on. The only suggestion I would make would be for fork boots and a fork brace if it is going to be a dirt bike / tracker.
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Lectron carb, modified head, stage 3 cam, Wiseco piston, header and Dyna, Varsi's cam chain adjuster, head plug and drilled rotor, Tkat, 12" shocks and 17/43 chain conversion.EdL's 4"FCs
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #17 - 12/13/16 at 13:51:57
 
Here's the difference between the stock, Ryca and my foot peg locations.

I had to make my own brake rod also. Problem with that compared to a cable is that the brake lever at the hub moves up and down when the swing arm moves. When I first finished the bike and went to ride, it kept stalling. Couldn't figure it out. Turns out that when I let out the clutch and put my weight on the seat the angle of the swing arm changed, making the distance between the pedal and the brake arm longer. That activated the rear brake and stalled the motor. When I adjusted the rear brake looser it finally was able to move.

John in Kalifornia
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #18 - 12/13/16 at 13:53:07
 
Here's my brother welding the tabs for mounting the footpeg assembly.

John in Kailfornia
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #19 - 12/13/16 at 13:57:50
 
Shifter from Suzuki street bike from the 80's. Note the close clearance. I had to be very careful not to snap it off when I bent it to clear the engine case.

John in Kalifornia
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #20 - 12/13/16 at 15:09:40
 
Hope he doesn't drop one of them sparks into his shorts.
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #21 - 12/13/16 at 17:44:01
 
Rear brake and right side foootpeg.
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #22 - 12/13/16 at 17:47:04
 
Brake light switch setup. I made the actuator from a 1/4 inch wheel collar soldered to a steel plate. That is the stock brake light switch, which crapped out. I replaced it with one from another Yamaha Enduro.  Note the custom bracket to attach to the frame.

The brake rod is 1/4 inch aluminum. Rear is threaded metric for the stock adjuster. At the front it is American thread with a clevis to attach to the brake lever.
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« Last Edit: 12/13/16 at 19:25:46 by carguyz »  

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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #23 - 12/14/16 at 06:34:17
 
carguyz wrote on 12/13/16 at 13:51:57:
Here's the difference between the stock, Ryca and my foot peg locations.

I had to make my own brake rod also. Problem with that compared to a cable is that the brake lever at the hub moves up and down when the swing arm moves. When I first finished the bike and went to ride, it kept stalling. Couldn't figure it out. Turns out that when I let out the clutch and put my weight on the seat the angle of the swing arm changed, making the distance between the pedal and the brake arm longer. That activated the rear brake and stalled the motor. When I adjusted the rear brake looser it finally was able to move.

John in Kalifornia


-------------------------------------------------------


The reason you had such a problem with the rear brake is because the pivot point of the rod is so far from the pivot point of the swing arm.  Google "BSR SR400" and look at how long they made the rear brake lever so that they could keep the OEM pivot location with the modified peg position.  

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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #24 - 12/14/16 at 06:34:55
 
Oh, and what tank did you use?  Did it require any modifications?
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #25 - 12/14/16 at 19:55:23
 
The tank is from a Gs450 Suzuki. I didn’t like what they did with the Ryca tank, which was to cut the bottom off and weld a flat plate on. Looking down on it from the top you still had the big hole for the speedometer. It also was out of proportion, too fat in width.

The frame of the Savage is rather unusual. First you have the high single tube going to the headstock. This splits into two and makes the frame quite wide in the rear. Therefore the rear of the GS tank had to be “massaged “ with the BFH quite a bit.  
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #26 - 12/14/16 at 19:56:36
 

The stock petcock mount at the rear of the tank interfered with the frame so I made a new mount and relocated the petcock forward.
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #27 - 12/14/16 at 19:57:47
 
Relocated petcock
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #28 - 12/14/16 at 19:59:32
 
The tunnel for the frame tube in the front had to be cut and recreated.
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Re: Street Tracker Project finished (sort of)
Reply #29 - 12/14/16 at 20:00:10
 
A new tunnel was welded in.
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