You still going to use the "Strap-under-the-seat" and wheel guard thingiees ?  

That board should help them hold their shape a lot better !  

If you are talking about Dave's example, it is a metal stutter diaphragm sort of thing using piezoelectric effects (tiny, rapid motion).  It is also over $75 and violates the Jedi price rules accordingly.

This is one thing that is clear about Dave and his digs and his toys, everything is well thought out and NICELY DONE, by golly.   His supply of parts that he has collected is amazing because it is ORGANIZED and he knows where everything is.

If you are talking mine, it is an impeller pump, normal and simple.

MM, lookie what I found, .30 caliber cast bullets, unsized and unchecked.    What size do you want them sized at to fit your son's 30 caliber K31 Swiss rifle?

The syle is called "Fat 30" and the nose runs from .302" to .304" on a taper so it will definitely find your rifling (and your forcing cone) in your son's K31 rifle.

If you load it long (and it sees some significant loading force when the action get slammed shut) you will see it pull the bullet from the case if you try to pull a round out of the chamber, so take care to load it somewhat on the short (loose) side to keep that from happening.    

Remember, there is .002" to 003" variation in the as-cast nose, so you need to find you a big one to set up your loading depth to the case.

The bore would like to see it sized at around .309" (a thou bigger than the groove diameter).

They are roughly about the same weight as what he is shooting now.  Of course you will download them to cast speeds ~ 1400 - 1600 ~ fps where they will not kick at all, but they still have enough momentum and mass to take a quartering shot OK, penetrating completely and leaving a good blood trail.

I have them lubed and I will size them to .308-309 on the lubed bands if you want them.    You will have to seat them deep so they will load/unload reliably --- pick a fat nose example to set the depth up with.

I will bring them to the next trip, if you want them.    Pending word from you I'll leave them at 312" diameter on the bands -- can go into a .303 Brit or a .312" Argentine or .312" Spanish Mauser or a Marlin Microgroove 30-30 at that diameter.   Might also work in my 30-06 as Savage rifling is very shallow (not as bad as a Marlin, but skimpy compared to older guns).

Dave, shall I save that canopy skeleton or not?   I expanded it to find only one member was bent, so it still has a lot of good parts for your old skeleton.

Thanks OF, piezoelectric vibrations, I'd need to autopsy one..
Or get some No Kidding drawings.

just add milk... yum

Yup, I have an RCBS Lubriciser and am set up for most calibers of the old Milsurp world.

And I have a weight, measured after lubing at 192 grains ....  and a story to go with it.



I was shooting this bullet out of an early model 39-A Marlin Microgroove 30-30 variant that I picked up cheap from a pawnshop as a "how to do a gun renovation" show and tell project.   Stock had been spray painted (along with some of the metal) and it was rusted in places.

Stripped and refinished the stock, found it was a pretty dark walnut underneath.   Bluing responded very well to the oil and steel wool trick, only had a just a few spots where the real bluing was interrupted by rust pitting big enough to be noticeable.

Put a scope on it and bought me a six banger mold in the new Fat 30 that suspiciously finished development able to fit a wide range of 30 caliber guns, both old guns and new guns.

Found the old gun to be the most accurate cast bullet gun I had at the time, and this was shooting the Fat 30 bullet.   Started shooting it at 250 yards to see if the accuracy held up at long distances (some cast gun/bullet combos fall off in accuracy crossing the sound barrier, some fall off very badly and actually start hitting sideways).    I also wanted to empirically see how far bullet drop actually was (28" if memory serves) and if could you predict it well enough to use it at long distances (yes).

Fat 30 held an 8"- 12" group size at 250 yards -- very good for a cast bullet at that sort of distance.

In screwing around at 250 yards I was using a new 4' x 8'  sheet of 1/2" plywood as my target, with it leaned up against a 6" diameter hardwood tree.    Several slugs went through the target and the tree and happened to stick into a larger tree further along in the woods.   Still point on, still penetrating after 6" of hardwood so it would certainly do lethal damage to a meat animal at range that you can very rarely see that far in the NC woods.

It is my experience that no cast load kicks for very much, this is because you have to hold the velocity down to keep cast shooting accurately.   However, you do need to keep the bullet weight up to have good penetration when it strikes something.

I actually crimped that bullet into the cases, with the Lee roll over crimp that all their loading dies will do.   The crimp was out on that tapered nose and it was strong enough to bite into the bullet, preventing it from moving around when banged around in a tubular 30-30 magazine.

Bagged and tagged and ready to load .....   remember to FIND YOU A REALLY FAT NOSE BULLET and use that one when setting up the seating depth.   Then set it up loose, as the gun has a "slam to rotate & load" action with no real camming action to force a too fat nose on into the chamber.   Either that, or caliper hand sort out the fat nose bullets -- you don't want any chambering issues when hunting.   As a matter of fact, always run the rounds through the chamber before loading the magazine for a hunting trip .....

Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 11/27/16 at 18:22:20:



There are so many who need a full serving of bullet soup.