Armen
I guess you reversed the pulley so that your new retaining ring is now on the outside?


Norman.

Norm,
Latest version of the truth: I decided to narrow the rear pulley to 1". At that width, the offset is the same on both sides. Since I wiped off the outer, stronger cast side, I am going to flip the pulley around and use the bolted-on steel ring as the outboard retaining ring. Then I'll make a thinner inner ring.
Gaining over 1/2" from doing this. Hoping that along with the shocks from Chris Livengood, which seem to be a bit narrower at the bottom than the RYCA ones, I may be able to center the shock over the lower eyelet rather than running it alongside as it is stock.
Next step is to mangle the front Kawi pulley and send the belt off to be narrowed.

So, the flog continues. I narrowed both pulleys to 1" wide. Made a new outer ring for the front pulley. Flopped the rear one over, so the OEM steel inner ring is now outboard. Might not bother to run an inner retaining ring on the rear pulley.
Rear pulley lost about a pound. The front one about 1/4 lb less than stock, 3/4 lb less than a stock Kawi pulley.
This allowed me to move the left shock inboard. Chopped over an inch off the top shock mount/protrusion/thingy sticking out of the frame. Drilled into the upper mounting stud with an 8.5mm bit, then tapped the hole to 10x1.5mm. Now the top of the shock mounts on a 10mm bolt, which is threaded into the frame.
On the bottom, I 'm using a clevis on the  left shock bottom, and an eye on the right shock bottom. OEM, the left shock sits out further than the right one, so moving it inboard, and leaving the right one as is, makes the shocks look symmetrical. While I was at it I drilled the lower right shock mount out and tapped it to 8x1.25, so now a bolt holds the shock onto the lower shock mount.
On the lower left, I chopped up the clevis supplied by Chris at Livengood and widened it to clear the lower mount.
The problem with the clevis mounts, is that they add about 15mm to the length of the shock. Even with the clevis threaded all the way in, the eyelet mount on the right side I barely engaged into the bottom of the shock.
It's all dummied up now, but I'll have to modify a clevis mount for the left shock so that the right shock will have enough thread engagement when the shocks are set to the same length.
As of now, the left shock with the clevis is about 13 3/8" I'd like to shorten that a bit.
Talked to the guy chopping the belt It should be done within a week. Using a straightedge, it looks life the belt (cut to 1" wide) will clear the shock.
Just bolts on!

The non-matching lowers were the only way to have the shocks with the same offset. If I do the same lower mount style on both, the right shock will be inboard. Unless I do some really wacky lower mount.
I thought about the shoulder or the belt.
Looked at the rear pulley on my bud's F800 BMW. No inner guard. Early Ducs had inner and outer guides on the cam belt pulleys. Later ones deleted the outer guide on the top pulley.
I did drill and tap the inner edge of the rear pulley. I i find a big piece of thin aluminum scrap, I'll prob make one.
Next problem is that the clevis is longer than the eyelet mount. Right now the eyelet on the lower right is only engaged  by a few threads into the shock. Have to make a new (shorter) eyelet for the lower left so that I can make the right shock shorter.
Just bolts on!

I hear you on the limited shock mounting options.  I might prefer putting the U on the left side of the swingarm but maybe I wouldn't like that either.  No big deal either way.  And I don't hate it either.  Hell, even if I did, it's your bike.  (Plus I wouldn't even comment if I did hate it!)

Someone got paid a lot of money to make sure the belt on your bud's F800 won't fall off!

It shouldn't be hard to adjust the belt so that it wants to hold the outside of the pulley.  My worries would be if the wheel adjusters came loose and the wheel were to slip or what might happen to the belt as the swingarm travels through it's arc.  Sure these are unlikely problems, but you already have a slightly loose belt and I doubt your chainline is perfect (mine isn't even close), etc.

I just don't want you getting slammed to the ground there bud! It's not fun.  

Three front pulleys. The stock Suzi-Q one, the +2 teeth Kawi one modified to fit the Savage, and a Kawi pulley narrowed to 1" and modified to fit the Savage.
Stock Suzi-Q is 2.2 lbs, stock Kawi is 2.6 lbs, modified and narrowed Kawi is 1.9 lbs.
Changed the socket head Allens to stainless button head Allens. A little nicer.
Rear pulley is approx 1 lb lighter than stock.
Haven't weighed the belt, but it'll be 2/3 the weight of stock (cutting it down from 1.5" to 1").

Ruttly,
Goal is as close to 300 lbs and 40 HP  

If what I've read is correct, the stock wet weight is around 380 lbs. RYCA says their kits get you down in the 320 range. With an aluminum tank and a bunch of other lighter bits, I think 300 wet is possible.
In it's present incarnation, it'll be a stock top end with a Lancer bumpstick, Mikuni RS40, RYCA muffler, etc. Next go round it'll be a high compression 695 with a fondled head. By that point, 40 HP sounds pretty attainable.
We'll see.