Dave wrote on 08/17/16 at 04:30:58:cheapnewb24 wrote on 08/16/16 at 15:52:54:The square head bolts work just fine, there is no problem with the square head seating in the hub, and the square end of the bolt has nothing to do with how you screwed up (stripped) the threads on your bolt/nut.
cheapnewb24 wrote on 08/16/16 at 18:12:43:For goodness sakes, why can't manufacturers make good metal? is it that hard to do?
We couldn't afford to buy anything if Titanium was used for every nut and bolt ever used (a 3/8-16 bolt, 1-1/4" long when made from titanium is about $ 20.00...the same bolt in stainless is $ 0.67, the same bolt in Zinc plated Grade 8 steel is $ 0.35, Zinc plated grade 5 is $ 0.30). Nut/bolts, screws, frames, hubs, etc. are all made from materials that are cost effective, and are able to hold up to the job intended. Critical bolts that need to carry a lot of load are high strength.....and trim fasteners might be made from plastic....they are designed to do the job affordably. Your hub bolt was fully capable of doing the job - until you screwed it up by bottoming it out on the threads and perhaps putting too much torque on it. It is not Suzuki's fault that you stripped the threads.
Well, a T-bolt would have been a better idea. No, it wasn't the problem, but it might reduce a little of the metal denting/shearing problems in the hub.
Yeah... they didn't have to use titanium. Grade 8 vs grade 5 is a better comparison. I
barely bottomed it out. You probably couldn't even tell it bottomed out as it was holding/compressing the sprocket. There are probably others here who have done the chain conversion without any extra washers, so who knows?
My mistake might have been the lubing. Since I finally looked at a couple of those links yesterday evening, I find that I should reduce torque by a certain percentage. Yes, that's pretty much what y'all have been telling me, but in different words. One of them didn't even like anti-seize. Then I took it to at least 40, maybe 45 ft lbs, and while that was within a good margin from max, it didn't work. Maybe the torque wrench failed. Maybe Suzuki's specs were a bit high, and the lube pushed it over the edge. Armen suggested the latter. Sounds like I'll be using loctite and laying off a bit on the torque.
Now, maybe I shouldn't want to use anti-seize on everything... But I don't like stuck bolts, especially those JIS bolts. I think I had to attach a wrench onto one of those decompression cable bracket screws. It was very tedious and slow to come out. It would barely move, and then I'd have to get another hold. That may have been with ATF/Acetone, too. Those old JIS screws grip well when the screwdriver fits well. Deformed it a little, but I got it out without destroying it. Did you know that JIS (japanese phillips) screws are being phased out or something? They don't really make true JIS screwdrivers anymore. Now, its all phillips/JIS combo screwdrivers. It came to mind that new S40's probably still have JIS screws, they must not be totally phased out.
A real dilemma... If you don't use anti-seize, you risk having the bolt get stuck in the future. If you do use it, you have to reduce torque... I wonder if that increases the risk of having the bolt come loose.
Can you really lube every bolt and safely reduce torque everywhere? There's the temptation to do it because it makes insertion so much easier and it makes you feel like you're making the threads last longer by lubing them and rust prevention and, and, and...
And, loctite can be a party pooper too. I never liked using that stuff. Why would you want to make your bolts get stuck on purpose?
I'm learning better these days... but... Do you guys think that (not red) loctite actually helps
prevent bolts from totally seizing by forming a shearable intermediate layer between the bolt and threads? Or, do you think loctite makes things worse?
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