There are about 100 variables in play here. Simple things from air pressure in the tires to structural things like rake and trail all effect the handling. Tire profile, wheel base, sping rate, damping, center of gravity, how tight you have the steering nut, wheel alignment, rider technique all have an impact on handling.

Make changes one thing at a time.

What exactly did you do to the bike to make it a "tracker". This is a term that means different things to different people. My guess is you have a wide front tire with a high aspect ratio. That would cause a bike to understeer.

Taller shocks should reduce the steering neck angle,making steering quicker,shorter shocks may be going in the wrong direction.

both tires are '90' as in 140/90-15, 100/90-19, 28-30psi, shocks are 12 1/2", bars are tracker style with stock bottom risers, tracker seat. Centre of gravity is likely higher. I'll work on technique first.
Carb is really working well with larger jets. Intake noise at speed is pretty high with K&N cone.
With the sale of my Vulcan, this is now my only ride, have all summer to work on it. Cheers!

The stock Savage has a lot of rake....and a lot of trail.  That makes the bike very stable in a straight line.

When your raise the back, and lower the front to get the Cafe' look, it reduces the rake and trail a bit - but it doesn't completely get it to the "sport bike" quickness in the corners.  My Cafe' bike does steer a lot stiffer than my other bikes...it does take more force to initiate a turn.

I don't know if the forward weight shift from the longer shocks causes the turning force to increase.....but trying to slolam along a dashed centerline is much harder on the Cafe' Savage than on the Ninja or NT700..

With my RYCA street tracker seems to handle quite well with not to much effort in turns however I have wider bars than a cafe model. I can feel some push when going into turns too hot,I ease off throttle a bit lean some more ease back into throttle and get it to drift thru the turn, down right scary drifting on a right turn doesn't scare me as much as going left. I think the only cure would be to derake the frame by cutting out some metal ,bend,weld and add some gussets for strength. But overall she has very good manors light & agile not bad considering it started life as a cruiser. Last night I upgraded front brake with Shawn's front brake kit just have to bleed system , should keep me from going into turns too hot in the first place. Stock front brake is weak even with good pads & braided hose. Front forks lowered with Ryca Kit & progressive springs with oil level set 5.5" from top of tube to oil , spring removed and fork collapsed, with about 1" removed from spring spacer,I used ATF. Rear shocks are progressive & tires are kenda k761s on 18" rims ,front 110/80 ,rear 120/80. Oh and a fork brace too !

It's not teachable even in a clinic, unless you paint targets on the road. If you're understeering , look inside the line you want.
It takes a real determination to force eyes away from where it Looks like you're going and focus on where you Want to go.
Once you are able to see far enough into the corner, look at where you want to be, if you're chronically wide, look inside the real target. I found some good corners,not too tight, and rode up the road, turned around, and just played in those corners a while. The best exit speeds came with less lean angle of the bike, me more down and inside,
My tires and your tires, different
My suspension, stock.
So, YMMV.

Gary NJ  I learned that flat tracking to scrub off some speed and transition from straights into turns. Scares the hell out of me using it on the street, and don't advise trying to learn it on the street, but it's hellafun on a dirt track. Use it only to scrub off speed and or to stay in my lane and even then it has to feel just right to get away with it on the street. But it comes in handy when you need it !