Talking about cam chains in general. What do other bikes get out of their cam chains mileage wise.

I have never owned a bike long enough to need to replace a chain. CB77/Yamaha XS650/Suzuki GS650 among others.

What is the consensus?

norm92de wrote on 05/20/16 at 10:29:48:


I haven't had any problems with the chain on my Savage yet, but from what I read, they go out way too fast.  I've never had to do anything but adjust the cam chain tension on any of my bikes.  I had a XS1100S with almost 100,000 miles on it that didn't get a new chain.

I think the OPs suggestion that the tensioner makes the cam chain too tight is probably correct.

My aim was not to offend, but when I start a reply with Dave                 dave, dave,....he  or others might not understand that as just my sense of humor. My thought is laughing is better than crying ,I like to tease a bit but this may not be evident  when read on the small screen.

Why wouldn't it be possible to simply break the chain and feed in a new one? Surely it is possible to re-rivet a cam chain???

norm92de wrote on 05/20/16 at 17:05:55:


The problem is obvious, the simple solution, as you say, build a chain with a master link. I'm pretty sure that since the problem exists and is obvious but nobody offers the replacement chain in any form other than one piece. I don't really see why not either.
I know what hazards a master link cause, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. The thing is, it's a built in weak spot on an already stressed, CRITICAL area. The liability for the manufacturer could be considerable.
The scene

Long, decreasing radius sweeper, guy, tucking tighter, dropping gears, matching revs, and the cam chain parts, engine causes the rear tire to slide out, he gets hurt,  


Then, figure out how the weight difference in the master link affects the chain, zooming around gears, sliding up and down guides,

And, no, nobody has what it takes to join a chain that is installed. Nobody can access it and pound a peined end rivet in.
If someone can, it's a rare bird. I'm not that bird.

I'm 100% behind the test. Glad someone is taking that bull by the horns.

armen,i think your on track,this may be really off the wall,you could use a small hardwood dowel (sealed with epoxy?) inside the spring 1or2mm. shorter than the space behind the plunger. this may sound weird unless you are aware that pound for pound wood is stronger than steel,and the compression strength of hardwood can be as high as 60,000psi.Being wood it couldn't damage any of the metal parts of the tensioner,and would afford protection if the paw were to fail (MacGyer at it again!)