I plan on checking on the cam chain sometime soon, and, having looked over some of the clutch discussion here, I thought that maybe it would benefit me to throw in a longer clutch rod while I have the cover off. The clutch works okay for everyday use, though it slips for a second between gears occasionally when I flog it and don't engage it just right. Just thought I'd ask if you guys thought I would get any benefit from doing that. It is between 1500-2000 miles between oil changes, so dirty oil could be an issue. I'm using Rotella dino 15w-40.

It doesn't seem too bad, does it? It seems to first engage near the upper line. I have play in the clutch, and it has plenty enough throw to disengage, so how can I get better than that? Will it simply have a more aggressive engagement profile with the same max grip? Will the "long" rod be too long for this case? Should I just do something else to the clutch for more grip or leave it alone?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFoS0n2-mGs

I loosened up the cable as much as possible then ran it back down to a reasonable place for driving.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcC1wn1IX-M&feature=youtu.be

Youtube has a nice video stabilization feature.  

I posted the links so you could look at the videos. The lever approaches the upper mark at the end of its free travel.

Shorter rod??? Wasn't it supposed to be the longer one? I gather there was a lot of confusion over this. The longer rod makes sense to me.

Your clutch sounds ok to me.

As the clutch plates wear they get thinner, this moves the operating lever lower on the case. If you are near the upper mark when you take up the free play that sounds good to me.

How many miles on the bike? It is possible you have glazed plates in the clutch if it is slipping.

If you're flogging the snot outta the poor thing and think you're feeling a slip, bypass the clutch. First to second, you gotta clutch it, but second on up, just slap the gas shut and snick it into gear and grab the gas. You can do it quick enough it won't even backfire. And you can downshift, too, but I can't really explain just how I flicked the gas and worked the shifter.

I can't clutchless shift my Cabbage nicely, either. It's a 4 speed.
My other Bikes, no problem up and down.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 05/03/16 at 04:33:06:


I have owned a few motorcycles that shift OK between gears without the clutch - but my Savage isn't one of them.  It is far faster, easier and smoother to use the clutch.....your bike will thank you for it.

I make sure the clutch lever is fully released before applying power......as full power and a partially engaged clutch can promote slipping.  When you fully release the clutch lever before applying throttle - you won't create clutch problems.......even with a modified engine.

I was able to shift mine sans clutch, once above 1st, smoothly and easily
Then again, I can do the same with a manual in a cage, or a box truck
I can likely do it in a semi but never have, so I won't say I can unless I ever try it
It's all timing and knowing the vehicle
I would not try it on a savage with the double Kaw pulley, though, as it separates the gears more, RPM wie

The clutch needs a shorter rod when wear takes place because as the clutch plates wear they get thinner which makes the pushrod relatively longer.

Suzuki makes 3 sizes of push rod to take up wear on the clutch plates. The stock rod is the longest I believe.

If you have a defective push rod that has worn down for some reason you may need a longer rod but normally the wear on the plates is the most significant factor.