Its Been A While(good song) since I've been around, so I thought I'd make a cameo appearance. It's been well over a year since I've posted anything. It's been over two years since my last ride. In early April 2014 as I pulled into my gravelled driveway the front tire washed out, and I was unable to keep it upright. The bike kept running(on it's side), and I rode back to it's parking place. I also took a 20 mile ride a few days later.  A couple of days after that when I turned the key - nothing. No lights, no sounds, no anything. I became frustrated in my 19 month old motorcycle(when I should've been frustrated at the operator). I probably loosened a connection or two, and foolishly have let the bike sit since. I use additives, and put plenty of STA-BIL and ethanol treatment in the tank. As time passed I added more, and have shaken the bike(fuel tank) periodically. I have not, however, yet drained the tank(again - foolishly). I just added some fresh fuel and treatments(Sea Foam, Star Tron, fuel injector cleaner), but have done nothing else. Any advice before I start the work ahead of me would be much appreciated.      

Save yourself a headache. Haul your battery to be tested.
And be prepared to buy a new one. I'm betting that one is done.

In two years all kindsa stuff can happen.

Don't even allow fuel into the carb.
Dump what you have,check the tank for rust.

order of operations:

1. drain all fluids
2. replace all fluids with new per service manual
3. change spark plug with new
4. change battery for new
5. pull carb
6. clean carb
7. re-install carb
8. replace air filter with new
9. check as many hoses as possible
10. turnover bike (start bike)

It's easier to troubleshoot when you know that these req'd maintenance have been performed.

I would not change the oil or filter until it is running.....when you remove those things a lot of oil comes out of the engine, and then when you start the engine you have no oil pressure for a few seconds while the system refills....that is not good.

I would also take the front valve inspection cap off, and do something to get oil on the cam lobes and rockers.

I would also remove the spark plug, and put a few ounces of very light oil inside the cylinder.  Even better yet....go buy some Sta-Bil fogging oil and follow the directions to spray it in the cylinder.  After 2 years of sitting, the piston/cylinder most likely has very little oil to keep the piston from scuffing during the first few seconds of running - when no oil is coming off the crank yet.

You can then change the oil and filter once you get the engine started and warmed up a little......and all the parts are coated with a film of oil that will help the engine survive while the new filter fills with oil.

That's the point Dave is making,

Thanks for the responses. It gives me more ideas to follow, or at least consider. My general way of thinking(oil) throughout the years has been more in line with Dave's. Get the engine running, and warm, then drain the oil(along with crud). I say that knowing the history of the engine : clean circulatory system - fully-synthetic - barely ran after last oil change - "only" two years...etc   Long ago(25-plus years) I was in the old car/engine business. I discovered that most people neglect their vehicles - doing little in the way of maintenance. I've torn down several hundred engines in my life(none in the past 25 years), and the lack of maintenance(specifically the lifeblood) was astonishing. At the old engine shop I had to "pound apart" over 1/2 of our rebuilds. By that I mean using a mallet and small piece of metal on the underside of the piston just to remove the piston/rod assembly. This was, of course, after removing connecting rod caps(and marking the caps with a punch). Engines with proper oil maintenance would easily pull out - sometimes fall apart. Also, I realize that opinions on the type of oil to use can vary, and that some may think I'm wasting money on Amsoil. However, JOG2 - are you suggesting that standard Rotella provides better cam(and related parts) protection than fully-synthetic Amsoil ? Please continue giving me more to think about members.

I started using this fogging oil a few years ago....it is a cool product.  It goes into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, and the directions tell you how many seconds to hold the button down and spray....and a lot of very light oil goes in. The oil is able to get down along the rings and piston skirt.  It is only about $ 6 a can, and you can buy it at most auto stores, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.  I have started adding it to engines that I know will be in storage for a while - and also before trying to start an engine that has been dormant for a while.

The amazing thing is that when you start the engine - it doesn't smoke?

http://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-fogging-oil