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Saddlebag Installation (Read 82 times)
stewmills
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Saddlebag Installation
03/15/16 at 10:13:14
 
This is piggy-backing on a thread I posted in the cafe, but I am needing direction now versus conversation.

I need new saddlebags and am wanting a hard mount versus throw-over as I currently have.

I am looking at these, or very similar styles:
https://www.vikingbags.com/suzuki-boulevard-s40-universal-medium-slanted-moto...

From what I gather here and from Viking is that their hard mount system does not work on our bikes because there is not a through-bolt on the rear of the pillion, only the front.  Viking also said their bags on our bike require rear turn signal relocation to the license plate.

So, my questions are:
1) I have the stock saddlebag supports that I have bolted to the underside of my rear fender, not on the outside.  Considering how this bracket is made and how the Viking hardware kit is made, why can't I make my own support out of some small steel strapping that has a top and bottom base plate for the Viking bag to bolt to, but bolts to the bike under the fender just like the stock one does?  As long as the strapping is thick enough to support the weight and not bend under pressure, right?  I would just need to ensure that I step the bag off of the bike the same distance on the L and R side so it looks right, but clears all of the stuff on both sides.

2) Is to necessary to relocate the rear turn signals, or can I just position the bags forward enough to clear the turn signals so long as I like how it looks? My current bags rub the turn signals when I open them but it's no big deal to me.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions?
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2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | Rotella T4 | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

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Dave
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Re: Saddlebag Installation
Reply #1 - 03/15/16 at 10:53:53
 
It would not be difficult for to make a bolt on the fender brace - but to do it really nice would take a bit of time.

You could mark the location you want the bolt, remove the fender brace and drill and tap the hole, then install a stainless bolt from the back with a bit of JB Weld on the head to keep it from backing out when the bags are not installed....the tighten it down.  Then you will just drill the holes in the saddlebags in the correct locations to match the fender brace bolts.  I would either use a large washer - or an aluminum strap on the inside of the saddlebag to spread the load out.
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stewmills
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Re: Saddlebag Installation
Reply #2 - 03/15/16 at 11:39:34
 
Dave wrote on 03/15/16 at 10:53:53:
It would not be difficult for to make a bolt on the fender brace - but to do it really nice would take a bit of time.


That doesn't bother me...I like "science projects" as JOG calls it.

Dave wrote on 03/15/16 at 10:53:53:
You could mark the location you want the bolt, remove the fender brace and drill and tap the hole, then install a stainless bolt from the back with a bit of JB Weld on the head to keep it from backing out when the bags are not installed....the tighten it down.  Then you will just drill the holes in the saddlebags in the correct locations to match the fender brace bolts.


Or...I wouldn't have to worry so much about tapping the new hole in the pillion if I have a shorter bolt for non-saddlebag use with a chrome acorn nut to go on it?  The other through bolts aren't tapped if I recall correctly. The acorn nut does all of the bonding. Right?
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2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | Rotella T4 | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

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Dave
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Re: Saddlebag Installation
Reply #3 - 03/15/16 at 12:09:24
 
The reason I thought you should tap the holes....is so you can screw the bolt in from behind, and when it tightens up and locks in place....you won't have any trouble with the bolt and exposed threads moving or turning as you install the bags and nut.  You could also do the same by drilling the hole, inserting a bolt from behind, and installing a lock nut on the outside....with enough bolt sticking out to provide a place to attach the bags and the Acorn nut.
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stewmills
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Re: Saddlebag Installation
Reply #4 - 03/15/16 at 14:07:23
 
Ohhhh...I gotcha.  

I still think I will end up having to relocate the rear turn signals to the license plate bracket so I don't have the bags riding up over the shocks and have to have them sticking out so far from the bike. Trying to minimize the gap.

Viking sells you a $49.95 light relocation kit, but I think I'll pass on that deal. Seems all I need for that is a bracket (would like to find something that looks nice and not patchwork), a few screws, and maybe a little wire and I can do it for less than $10.

Got any suggestions on a fashionable light bracket?
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2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | Rotella T4 | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

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youzguyz
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Re: Saddlebag Installation
Reply #5 - 03/15/16 at 16:24:49
 
stewmills wrote on 03/15/16 at 14:07:23:
Ohhhh...I gotcha.  

I still think I will end up having to relocate the rear turn signals to the license plate bracket so I don't have the bags riding up over the shocks and have to have them sticking out so far from the bike. Trying to minimize the gap.

Viking sells you a $49.95 light relocation kit, but I think I'll pass on that deal. Seems all I need for that is a bracket (would like to find something that looks nice and not patchwork), a few screws, and maybe a little wire and I can do it for less than $10.

Got any suggestions on a fashionable light bracket?


Here is what I did:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1407255954

Noooo.. not anywhere near your $10 target. but nice!
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