This year I put 10" mini apes on my 96' Savage and was able to use all the existing cables.  The clutch cable is down to two threads and I believe that it's a combination of just being old and also possibly the stretch I've put on it.

I'm inclined to order another regular Savage clutch cable knowing that having a new one will be good but has anybody else put an extended cable on with the 10" apes?  

You guys are the best, thanks.

I'm not quite sure that I understand what you're getting at but I'm not having any troubles moving the clutch and the cable is crimped all the way at the end on both ends.  No slack for me to absorb up on the cable.

Working with another fella at work I was actually able to run a new piece of steel wire through and crimp on some crimps that get the job done for now.  I did order a new OEM cable for all of $25 shipped so I'll replace the temp with that when I receive it.

Yeah, a couple of the guys were trying to talk me into a taking a ride without the cable installed and just shifting without.  As much fun as that sounds, I'm not trying to put myself in that position... on purpose at least.

I'm not a clutchless shifter fan.... I think they have a clutch on the bike for a reason.
I don't race... I time my shifts with revs...but still pull it in.... save wear and tear.....  engine lives longer.... less money spent, or so is my opinion and you know we all have them
As far as using the OEM on a set of ten inchers.... I put a pair of 2+" spacers on my elk horns.... still had cable to spare, even without shifting the cable below the triple tree.....

Although I have had motorcycles that shifted OK without the clutch.....they were small displacement dirt bikes.  My Savage doesn't like clutchless shifting, and I don't recommend anyone do it (except in an emergency when you have broken a cable and need to get home).  One day when I was riding the brass end on my clutch cable broke the solder joint and the inner cable was slipping out of the brass ferrule - so I had to ride home without the clutch, and the shifts were not smooth no matter how hard I tried....and the drive train "clunked" every time.  (I have found a much better flux to use when soldering steel to brass and fixed the problem).

I believe the heavy flywheel and heavy crankshaft just makes too much engine inertia, and the engine just doesn't like to change rpm as quickly as is required when you shift without a clutch.  You are asking the engine to instantly change a couple of hundred rpm, and the rotating parts in the Savage are big and heavy and not willing to change rpm instantly.