I'm not so sure about that. Most of the dual snail horns I've used come with a 15 or 20 amp fuse. That would seem to indicate that they aren't going to draw more than the factory wiring is capable of handling.

Maybe, but our wiring is so simple that I shouldn't expect a bottleneck. I'll bump the horns directly off the battery and compare the volume after I install them without the relay. If there's a noticeable difference I'll add the relay and maybe heavier gauge wire. I'm pretty confident the relay isn't necessary. I mean, if you think about it, I burned out the coil on the stock horn...seems like there's some current there.  We'll see. I'll record everything and post when I'm done. This will be fun

thumperclone wrote on 10/15/15 at 10:23:16:


I understand that the relay draws less current.
As for the contacts of the switch not being rated for the current of the dual horns, I don't think that has been established.  I'd like the source where you pulled the specs for the horn switch from if you wouldn't mind sharing that info.  I'm assuming that the stock switch is fine considering that the dual horns come with 10, 15, or 20 amp inline fuses respectively. The fact that the switch carries enough current to burn out the stock horn's voice coil is also a good indicator.
I would be installing the inline fuses on the ground of the snail horns.  It's understood that putting a fuse on the switch itself would be useless.  
I'm very eager to have your source for the specs of the horn switch.  Those details would be very enlightening.  Please do let us know.

thumperclone wrote on 10/15/15 at 15:10:07:


Anecdotes are fascinating, but they aren't data.  I'll do the legwork on this and get some real numbers posted for everyone.  I've got this on my action item list for next week.  I do appreciate the advice though.