Before I go tearing into anything and possibly making it worse, I'd like some input please.

When I bought my 2003 Savage it had a tad over 4000 miles on it. I drove the bike for about a month, 100 miles a week or so...just late evening cruises to get familiar with it. Never had a shifting problem at all.

I took it apart a bit (tank for raptor, seat, regulator re-locate, rear turn signal re-locate, running lights added to the rear...but nothing major) so it sat for a few weeks with only a start-up and idle for 3-5 mins every so often.

I changed out the clutch perch because the threaded area was cracked...got a used one off eBay in nice condition (same year as mine). Removed the clutch cable at the perch/lever and never touched the end that goes to the motor side.

I got the bike back together and rode it about 50 miles....no issues. Then I changed the oil using Suzuki branded oil. Drove it around the block, then drained it and changed the oil again, this time using Rotella T. Changed the filter at the same time. Oil level is a tad high on the little window but you can still see a bit of daylight above the oil.

I took it for a 30 mile trip yesterday and noticed I was having trouble with the gears. Idle was a bit high, and she "clunked" into first at a standstill, and I had trouble going from 1st to second (it kept going into neutral instead of 2nd). Once the bike is moving she shifts fine. I lowered the idle a bit to see if perhaps that was why she was clunking into first when standing still....and it reduced the "ka-chunk" sound a bit but not very much. I used the adjustment at the perch to try and find a spot that let it drop into first cleanly and cant find it. Went from all the way out, to all the way in and no real change. I did notice that if I give a little push with my feet that she goes into 1st much easier.

It is certainly possible that I stretched the clutch cable when changing out the perch.

So....what did I do wrong this time?

Not to hijack, but how often does the clutch level itself need replaced, mine feels a bit wiggly.

JutMan wrote on 09/18/15 at 11:27:31:

Not to hijack, but how often does the clutch level itself need replaced, mine feels a bit wiggly.

If you are referring to the LEVER (level didnt quite make sense), I had this same issue. The brake lever was nice and snug, moved very freely but didnt flop around at all. The clutch lever on the other hand, had almost 1/4" worth of up and down play at the ball on the end of the lever and it was making me nuts.

I tried 3 different used levers and they were all loose, no matter how much I tightened the screw. I measured the opening in the clutch perch and then measured the lever area that slips into it...and found that there was over 0.030" worth of wiggle room. The only explanation I can come up with is that the aluminium clutch perch fatigues over time and that opening either wears out a bit or "bends" open. This can also happen if the bike is dropped (or even just falls over) and the clutch lever takes a bit of a sideways impact.

I used some 0.020" shim stock and made a washer to pick up some of the slack. Lubed it well and put it back together. The free-play or wiggle is gone.

Do NOT attempt to either squeeze the opening in a vise or pound on it with a hammer to narrow the opening. You WILL put stress fractures in the casting and/or crack it.

Back to my clutching issue....sumptin'tain't right.

I adjusted the nut on the perch for a bit less than 1/8" of "free play" and rode it again. No difference. It still does not shift cleanly when the bike isnt moving, and it sill goes from 1st to neutral every time unless I really yank up on it with my foot.

It used to be that neutral was a bit tough to find on this bike when I first got it. Now, it pops into neutral easy as pie from first at a standstill. Going down, drops into neutral from second (at a standstill or a slow roll) very easily as well. It's almost like the clutch isnt really functioning at all. When I come to a stop, I have to drop into 1st while the bike is still rolling. Sitting at a stop sign in neutral, it will not go into first no matter how many times I push it. I have to give a push-off with my feet in order to get it to drop into 1st gear.

I moved the adjustment screw/nut on the perch from all the way out, to all the way in....with little or no difference in ease of shifting. The bike shifts fine once moving, I am assuming because I am getting the added help from synchronizing.

I have done nothing at all to the engine/clutch at all except a couple of oil changes. Current oil is Rotella T and sitting at just under the "high" mark on the observation window. I had done an oil change a few weeks ago with Suzuki branded oil from the dealer "oil and filter change kit". I have no idea what kind of oil the previous owner used. The bike had 4,076 miles on her when I got it....and has 4,228 on it now.

About the same time as the first oil change, I also replaced the clutch perch with a used one from the same year Savage (2003). I never touched the engine side of the cable. I removed the perch, removed the lever screw and nut, took the lever off and then installed the new perch in reverse order. It IS possible that I stretched the cable. There were a couple times where I was worried about pulling on it in order to get it off (until I realized how much easier it would be if I just unbolted the darn perch).

On the engine side, the clutch actuation arm is sitting where the lower edge of the arm lines up perfectly with the lowest slash mark on the engine casing.

So.......which way do I want to adjust the cable at the engine in order to solve my problem? Do I want to run the adjustment nut and jam nut DOWN (clockwise) or UP? Is there any other issue that this could be a symptom of? It seemed to start at the same time that I started messing with the oil and replacing the clutch perch ( I didnt do any driving in between to speak of).

EDIT:  I did some YouTube searches and decided I needed to move the adjustment nut DOWN...so I went out and moved it down about 1/8". Started the bike and tried shifting. Better, but still very clunky. Went another 1/8" inch and took her up to the store...about 12 miles round trip. Its better, but still has the issue going from neutral to 1st when stopped. I dont have a lot of adjustment room left...less than 1/4" I would guess.
2 things:

1- there is no nut on the bottom of the adjustment screw...just the adjustment nut and slightly thinner jam nut on the top. Should there be a nut below?
2- At a standstill, in neutral...difficult to shift into 1st BUT, once I get it into 1st gear, I can sit there and go back and forth from 1st to neutral all day long and it is smooth as butter. If I move the bike ANY distance....even a foot...while in first and then try going to neutral and back to first....it wont go again. I wiggle the clutch lever in and out a little bit or rock the bike and get it into 1st gear...and then dont move the bike at all, she will go back and forth between neutral and first all day. No idea if that symptom helps but it seems odd to me.

As always, any insight would be appreciated.

Both nuts are supposed to be on top. No nut on the underside.

I think Kenny G is right. The rod he's referring to is # 36 on this diagram:

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2000-suzuki-savage-650-ls650p/o/m147741#s...

It's easily bent and, if it's bent even a little it can cause shifting issues.

Yep..
If the shifter got shoved down,,

Roger that guys. I am assuming that you are suggesting that I straighten and then reinforce it because, once bent....it is likely weakened?

I have the dies to thread a piece of steel rod. Would replicating the original be a worse idea than trying to repair the old one? Or are you suggesting that I do the repair in lieu of purchasing a new part.

Stu,

You could make a much stronger rod than the one from Suzuki, but chances are one end of the rod will be right hand threads and the other end will be left hand threads.

Kenny G