Sorry for the thread topic couldn't think of it's exact term. Since there's no cap on it anymore it's really dirty inside the cavity where the spark plug is. How do I go about cleaning that area out without damaging anything or getting sediment inside where it doesn't belong. I noticed today some water must of got in there and the gunk has leaked out of the fins in the front portion below the decomp lever. It's a mess in there and I'd like to get it right.

I blew mine out with a compressor, but it wasn't wet
if you think it's oil, blast it out with Brake Parts Cleaner, it'll flush the oil, if that's what is is, and evaporate quickly leaving no residue

@Art Webb
I wondered the same thing about that reversed bolt. That's how it was when I bought the bike. I watched the RYCA videos on both cafe and bobber builds and they just cut the bolt and did nothing more.

I'm gonna try some parts cleaner and see if that works. Just wanted to know if a little water in there to wash it out can cause damage. Like is there anywhere it can go other than the spark plug hole that would do harm.

The CS 1 video part 2 and the RR Bobber video part 2 as well. It's about half way IIRC when they talk about the decomp mod.

Art Webb wrote on 04/14/15 at 21:27:09:


Art if you pull up the CS 1 tear down video and fast forward to about 8 minutes it shows the cover removal and he talks about cutting the bolt. I had to go back and check. I watched all of these originally when I was trying to figure out how to install the thumb decomp lever since the bike didn't have it on when I got it.

@dave
Doesn't this bolt right above and behind the decomp lever do the same?

@Dave
Now that I see the surface it makes sense. Wonder why RYCA would say in a video it not important if it's actually a corner section of the mating surface that's there for a reason. Now I've just gotta figure out how to get a bolt back in there without removing the entire top. Does that cone off without pulling the engine?

Getting a shorter bolt in there is easy-peasy.

Get a piece of threaded rod....metric or US in the size that fits.

Drop it down in the place it needs to go...and mark it length so you can get a washer and nut on top....an acorn nut looks best.

Then cut the threaded rod to length.

Put threadlocker on the end of the threaded rod, and then using an open end wrench or needle nose pliers push the nut between the fins at the front of the engine, and then get the nut threaded on.  Leave it alone overnight and let the threadlocker set.

Then put the washer and nut on the top of the stud....and snug it down.

Done!

(As an alternate you can try and find a bolt just the right length, and then try and hold a nut in place in the bottom while you thread the bolt down from the top - but it takes a bit more skill and luck).