I think the rod you used was too long.
measure how much the rod extends beyond the pack.
on mine, it can't be more than 13mm.
12.5mm is what I shoot for.

BTW, rod length does not control slipping (as long as it's short enough to get the cover on without depressing the clutch pack)
Instead it controls disengagement.

So if he's slipping, he needs to increase the spring rate by adding a washer under the springs or using HD springs.  Be careful not to bottom out the springs.

I will check how long it extends beyond the pack.
So put his old rod back and adding a washer under the springs is the way to go you think?

To make sure we speak the same, disengaging the clutch,  you mean the bike moves , engaging,  the bike dont move...

And by bottom out the springs you mean pressing them,  making them short?

I am from Sweden so sometimes the language is difficult :-P

Thomas Högberg wrote on 04/14/15 at 11:27:20:

clutch are odd things, and may not work like you think.  if that throw out rod is being compressed when you put the cover on, it'll slip.  If the springs are weak, it'll slip.  If the arm is too high on the case, you won't get enough throw to disengage the clutch.  Get all 3 points right and you'll be happy.

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yes if the engine is off.  I think of it as... you engage 2 gears to make a motor move a wheel.  If you disengage, it will free wheel.

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Don't fully compress the springs, it's not good for them or the components.  
The throw out cam is made from sintered metal and will fracture.

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I am from here and still the language is difficult.

OK....think about it this way.

If you push on the rod....the clutch plates are pushed apart and the bike does not move...the clutch is slipping and not driving the bike.

If you release the clutch....the clutch plates come together and the clutch plates create friction and move the bike.

If you were to remove the rod completely...you would never be able to make the clutch slip...it would always drive the bike.

Therefore....a shorter rod will allow the clutch to engage sooner, and make up for wear in the plates.  (However....if the clutch arm is between those two indicator marks on the case when the lever is not being pulled....the length of the rod is correct).

If the lever has slack in it then the rod isn't causing the slip. It affects more subtle aspects of the clutch operation. How is more than I intend type. Possibly more than I understand, but, that rod isn't involved with hands off the lever. You must adjust for slack and the oil can't have friction modifier.
The rod length has more to do with what part of the lever throw is dealing with the power of compressing the springs.