SuzukiSavage.com - Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mods

wakosama Full Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 138 Spring, TX Gender:	Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mods 04/10/15 at 21:56:31 To do the front suspension upgrade per Tech thread... Are all years lower triple trees the same? I have a 2005 S40. Would a 1990 or 2000, etc., lower triple tree work on mine? To mod and use as the top per the tech guidance? Thanks.
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swing69 Full Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 214 Central Joisey Gender:	Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo Reply #1 - 04/11/15 at 03:26:03 I believe the answer is yes..... I have a 2006 and the lower I got to mod was a 96 from ebag..... Check a parts book to be 100% sure.
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wakosama Full Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 138 Spring, TX Gender:	Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo Reply #2 - 04/11/15 at 12:09:55 found a 2006, Ebay $40. Hope I'm not just dreamin' my money away. Thanks.
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swing69

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #3 - 04/11/15 at 12:46:07

nah... thats about the going rate. It'll work.

Are you going to do the full mod? Just finished it myself. easy as long as you have a drill press and good couple of drill bits.

You'll need the emulators, springs - - and I went for the adjustable caps. NIce touch, came from China....but only tooks a week or so........

good luck. post to Gary or myself if you need help. Gary's write up is very good.

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Gary_in_NJ Serious Thumper Offline LS650 Cafe Racer Posts: 2633 Amongst the Twisty Roads	Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo Reply #4 - 04/11/15 at 15:48:16 All years will work. If you aren't going for a polished look, get as clean a unit as you can. If you are going for the polished looked, it doesn't really matter the condition as you'll be spending a few hours rubbing it and getting to know it.
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wakosama

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #5 - 04/20/15 at 18:14:12

OK, I got it. seems pretty good condition. No clamp bolts though.

So now how/where do I cut off the shaft. It has a wide thin part just next to the tree. Don't think I can get a saw blade under it next to the tree without damaging the aluminum even when I cut off the steering stops.

And once I get the shaft flush with the tree do I then drill out the inside of the shaft to 7/8"? with the unibit, as I think?

Then I'll fit it, and ask for more advise on internals so I can order them.

thanks so far.

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Gary_in_NJ

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #6 - 04/20/15 at 20:05:10

I'd cut off the steering stops first. This will give you more room to work. The shaft gets cut so it's flush with the top surface. I used a cut-off wheel, but a jig saw, saws all or a band saw would work too. If you are going to polish the surface don't worry about marring the surface as you'll be cleaning it up anyway. If you are going to leave the surface as is, use a cutting method that you think you are most accurate. The washer and nut will more then likely cover any mistakes.

After its cut clean, use a drill press and run a 0.875" Unibit through it.

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botticelli

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #7 - 04/26/15 at 21:16:42

Gary,

While shopping on racetech, I noticed that they have custom rears dual shocks as well, some with rebound adjustment.

http://www.racetech.com/page/id/98

It could be a worthy upgrade over the ryca's, but only after I get the front sorted.

Fox also makes some quality product.
http://www.ridefox.com/subhome.php?m=moto&type=onroad&ref=topnav

Thoughts?

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Gary_in_NJ

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #8 - 04/27/15 at 05:27:15

Yeah, the RaceTech G3-S or Fox Podium (R & RC1) shocks would both work well on a cafe conversion. They are pricy, especially if you go with the piggyback option. At $655, the Fox Podium R is the best value. They are available in 12.8" and 13.8" lengths. I'd go with the 13.8" and increase my rear sprocket by two teeth to ensure chain clearance at the front of the swingarm.

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Art Webb

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #9 - 04/29/15 at 22:18:04

I'm curious what you fellas think the result would be of doing only part of the conversion?
like doing the longer shocks, 18 inch rear wheel, but not the fork mods, and maybe working off the CS 2 rather than CS 1 setup
obviously you wouldn't get a 60's cafe style, but functionally I wonder what it'd be like?
I like the CS 2 kit, but not the idea of ditching the airbox, or messing with the forks (though the superbike bars would be cool)

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Dave

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #10 - 04/30/15 at 03:04:15

Art Webb wrote on 04/29/15 at 22:18:04:

I'm curious what you fellas think the result would be of doing only part of the conversion?
like doing the longer shocks, 18 inch rear wheel, but not the fork mods, and maybe working off the CS 2 rather than CS 1 setup
obviously you wouldn't get a 60's cafe style, but functionally I wonder what it'd be like?
I like the CS 2 kit, but not the idea of ditching the airbox, or messing with the forks (though the superbike bars would be cool)

Adding longer rear shocks is often done to get more shock travel on the back....folks like Serowbot, MMRanch and Lancer run longer shocks without front end mods.

An 18" rear wheel would work as well....not sure what the "look" would be as we are just so used to seeing a fat piece of rubber on the back of a cruiser. Serowbot has added a seat that makes for a nice look on the bike. One issue with adding a scrambler type seat is the seating position is raised considerably and then there is a void under the seat that needs to be filled in....and I am not sure how well that seating position works with the stock peg location.

The stock airbox works well.....keep it if you can.

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« Last Edit: 04/30/15 at 04:16:07 by Dave »

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Gary_in_NJ

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #11 - 04/30/15 at 06:32:46

Art,

I think the forks are the weaker link. Whether your bike is a standard/unmodified LS650 or a cafe conversion, the damping rod forks have limitations that result in nose dive during brake application, hyrdo-lock when hitting "square-edge" bumps (fast fork movement), and a poor overall ride quality. All of these uncontrolled motions and actions lead to an unsure/unconfident rider and that ultimately effects handling.

Much of the same can be said for the shocks, but a shock doesn't bear anywhere the duty of the forks for handling, although they do significantly contribute to ride quality.

I would spend my money on a Gold Valve Emulator and fork springs. That's $250-$300 that will transform your relationship with the bike.

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botticelli Junior Member Offline Custom Savage Build Coming! Posts: 66 Boston	Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo Reply #12 - 04/30/15 at 07:09:05 Art, I fully agree with Gary. If you have to choose, spend the money up front. The shocks will make far less impact than the monumental advantage of a properly sorted front end.
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Art Webb

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #13 - 04/30/15 at 22:06:22

Dave wrote on 04/30/15 at 03:04:15:

Art Webb wrote on 04/29/15 at 22:18:04:

I'm curious what you fellas think the result would be of doing only part of the conversion?
like doing the longer shocks, 18 inch rear wheel, but not the fork mods, and maybe working off the CS 2 rather than CS 1 setup
obviously you wouldn't get a 60's cafe style, but functionally I wonder what it'd be like?
I like the CS 2 kit, but not the idea of ditching the airbox, or messing with the forks (though the superbike bars would be cool)

Adding longer rear shocks is often done to get more shock travel on the back....folks like Serowbot, MMRanch and Lancer run longer shocks without front end mods.

An 18" rear wheel would work as well....not sure what the "look" would be as we are just so used to seeing a fat piece of rubber on the back of a cruiser. Serowbot has added a seat that makes for a nice look on the bike. One issue with adding a scrambler type seat is the seating position is raised considerably and then there is a void under the seat that needs to be filled in....and I am not sure how well that seating position works with the stock peg location.

The stock airbox works well.....keep it if you can.

Actually I was thinking going down the CS2 road (standard not scrambler) without losing the airbox and running a Dyna rather than the Emgo, and If I did that I would of course relocate the pegs, too
Of all the bikes I've ridden I've liked the Standards the best

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Art Webb

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Re: Q's for Gary in NJ [and others] triple tree mo
Reply #14 - 04/30/15 at 22:16:28

Gary_in_NJ wrote on 04/30/15 at 06:32:46:

Art,

I think the forks are the weaker link. Whether your bike is a standard/unmodified LS650 or a cafe conversion, the damping rod forks have limitations that result in nose dive during brake application, hyrdo-lock when hitting "square-edge" bumps (fast fork movement), and a poor overall ride quality. All of these uncontrolled motions and actions lead to an unsure/unconfident rider and that ultimately effects handling.

Much of the same can be said for the shocks, but a shock doesn't bear anywhere the duty of the forks for handling, although they do significantly contribute to ride quality.

I would spend my money on a Gold Valve Emulator and fork springs. That's $250-$300 that will transform your relationship with the bike.

I'll keep that in mind, Gary, thanks, I've never ridden a bike with any other kind of forks to be honest, so I have no idea what the difference feels like, but I do know that the front end of this bike feels a bit vague compared to the Ninja 500 I had
for that matter the old XS 1100's front end feels more planted
although I did discover after my low side on the 3 sisters ride that the PO had one shock's preload higher than the other lol

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