Hey guys,

I have reviewed the threads on the carb work.  I have hit 3 issues I'm hoping to get help with.

1 -  I can't remove the main jet.  The bolt on the end removes but tapping and even pulling with a cable won't remove it.

2 - the float bowl pin won't come out.  I halve tried tapping it with a driver on the end and pliers on the head end.  Still can't get that out.  So I can't check out the valve and pin inside.

3 - the a/f screws head looks like it was stripped from the mechanic visit.  This might be the source of my problems.

Float bowl pin

Tannermac wrote on 02/01/15 at 12:33:43:

silly newb, you took the main jet out, the threaded hole is the needle jet.  not easy to take out, generally, I leave it in.
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becareful, those posts will snap off.  support and tap with a pin punch.
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brass is soft, doesn't take much to chew up the slot like that.  if it was driven down too hard, it will stick, have a light touch when turning it closed.

1) Knowing how to work on this carb is a valuable skill for LS650 owners, stay with it.

2) Here's a well written tutorial on this carb:
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutori...

3) There are certain parts of this carb that are expensive to replace. Look up the prices on those those parts so you can know where to  take extra care with those parts so you don't break them (examples: slide, carb body and bowl).

4) Death, taxes, and screw extraction.

The pin that holds the floats in place has a head on one end and splines on the other. Be sure you are tapping on the headless end. I would lay the carb on its' side, soak the headless end of the pin with Kroil, put it under a Tensor lamp or other heat lamp over night - just get it warm, not too hot or the heat could ignite gas fumes. Tap gently with a pin punch while supporting the flange as others have suggested. If it still won't come out, heat the flanges with a soldering gun to expand the flanges and  again tap gently. If you break the flange, the carb is toast. Kroil is great stuff (Wal-mart, gun shops). You may have to soak it a few times to get it to budge. Patience is paramount - new or used carbs aren't cheap. Good luck!

Tannermac wrote on 03/09/15 at 17:58:08:


Although a starting point can be given for the A/F screw - it is something that has to be adjusted for each bike.  The altitude, pilot jet and other factors make this screw something that has to be adjusted for each bike.  Start at 1.5 turns out from lightly seated....and do what the fellow in this video suggests.  Then when you are riding....you might fiddle with it 1/4 each way and see if it makes any difference.  If the maximum rpm/smoothness is achieved at settings less than 1 turn out....install a smaller pilot jet - the the maximum rpm/smoothness occurs at more then 2.5 turns out....install a larger pilot jet.  Your idle needs to be a bit low for setting this screw, turn the idle speed back up over 1,000 rpm after you have set the mixture.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm5mB3R8Ucw

Sounds good.  

How do you guys measure the RPM?  Being there is no RPM gauge its a bit hard to judge when it wont even start.

I have everything back on and she wont start.   I am not 100% sure about the idle screw as the carb was removed and they turned it way up at the crappy shop I went to.

Now
- The carb has been taken apart cleaned up and a new A/F screw put in and I have tweaked it as suggested.
- New spark plug
- New Air filter
- New high octane gas
- Battery charged and on a tender
- Idle screw set to the obvious wear line
- Choke in and out (wont change it starting)
- New Oil (after winterizing - Emptied oil, gas, removed petcock cleaned, sanded petcock mounting area as it was leaking gas before
- Tried Petcock "on" and on "PRI"
- Removed fuel lines and filter cleaned and replaced
-

All I get from her is a low level woof, like she wants to start but something needs tweaking.  I took a video I will try to upload later and link.

I dont know if anyone on the board lives on Vancouver Island but I am thinking she just needs some experienced petting.

Is the sparkplug cap fully seated?

When you installed the a/f screw did you go past the initial resistance the happens as the o-ring moves through the chamber. I'd guess that it takes a good 20 turns to get the screw all the way until it fully compresses the spring.

If you stopped at the first sign of resistance the screw is too far out to start the bike.