You need to go to the top of  RSD section, and open up the Sticky for Bike Builds....there are plenty of Cafe' builds to review and get ideas.

I have been living with my build for a couple of years and 4,000 miles, and I have learnt' a few things.

REAR WHEEL.  Unless you try switching to cast wheels (which is a project in itself), you are going to have to have a rim laced on to your wheel.  An aluminum rim needs to have the proper spoke angle, and if you just buy a random one off eBay the chances are the angle will be wrong.  Buchannon Wheel and rim will punch the rear rim for the Savage Hub, provide stainless spokes, and lace it up.  I would count on about $ 400 for the swap.  Several of us have laced up our own wheels, and saved $ 100 a wheel.  It is not all that hard - but does take 3-5 hours each when you are learning how to lace and true.  You need to figure out what rim width you want....see below.

TIRES   The tradition is to run a 100/90 front tire and a 130/70 rear wheel.  The problem with that is that we all were using a 2.50 wide rear rim, and a 130/70 tire is made to fit on a 3.50 wide rim.  The 130 tire is therefore rolled and pinched too narrow and there is too tight of an arc at the tread.  It wear the center of the tread out too soon, and it rolls tread over onto the sidewall where it is not useable.  Currently I am running a 110/80 rear tire and it is plenty of tire on a 2.50 rim, and it is plenty of tire for this bike, and I am running a 90/front tire.  If you want a 130/70 rear tire - then get a 3.50 wide rear rim.

SWING ARM - You don't need to modify it if you are not running the vintage Firestones or some other really tall tire.  If you switch to a Kawasaki front pulley to change gearing - you will have to modify the swingarm for clearance if you have an 18" rear wheel.

PARTS - I got my rear sets, shift/brake linkage ball ends, and a few other parts from Dime City.   I got the seat, seat base, side panels, kick stand mount, and rear set mounts from RYCA.  My speedometer is a Trail Tech Vapor - also the Acewell is a recent newcomer that appears to be a nice one.  For a headlight I would look on eBay for a nice one from an older bike - the headlight from a 70's street bike would be a good fit.

There are several threads going on right now about fork lowering, shocks, etc.  

Dave

Thank you both for responding.

I have looked over the build section in the past.  I have plenty of ideas on my own as well however my questions were specific for a reason, Thanks for addressing them

do you recall what year the GS550 rim set worked (so the brake hub fitted on the right and the rear pulley fitted on the left just fine?)

I can make spacers if needed.

Yea Voodoo vintage rules they have great stuff at a solid price. If I build another hard tail, I will go with their Weld on, no doubt!

RYCA is overpriced and anyone here can do better. That tinker toy gas tank of theirs is what $650 plus shipping and paint. How about that $400 seat and $250 unpainted side covers. Come on, the builds with the GT550 tanks and number plates have it down, I used Benelli tanks on my RD builds and they are great too. The fact they come in chrome is ever better, I am not knocking RYCA, if you want to spend $8000 on a savage build (used) or $10,000 for a new one, that is of course your choice. They make good stuff. Way over priced.

I build all my bikes for under $1500 and sell them between $3000 and $6000, when I sell them So I may go $3000 on this build. So  $400  for a rim is out of the budget.

Thanks for the tip on the GS550. Let me know about the year.

Dave thanks for the tire info. I am running 110 front and 150 rear on my current savage bobber.

On my RD I ran 120/80 s yea way fat, great ride and stance.

Got to find a cheap running donor bike first

Thanks brother using the rear wheel off the 83 gs 550 is a huge cost saver. We can build these great bikes for a song.  I look forward to the build.