Hello every one this is my first post but will be far from my last. I recently bought this 87 savage with not quite 7000 miles on it for the low low price of $360 however as the picture should show the idler gear and the hole that the shaft goes in to is so out of shape it make the job quite a bit more than a simple parts swap i was hoping for advice on what some of you may have done to fix this i already have both new idler gears i still need to get the starter gear but its the hole i have many questions about such as the dept of the hole and how far out the "sleeve" that the rod goes into comes out of the casing. i was thinking about useing JB Weld to rebuild the side of the case but im unsure if that would be strong enough. if you would like me to post more pictures of the hole i would be glad too i can only seems to figure out how to post one at a time for now . if any one can help me with this out please do.....  

While you have it at the machine shop you also need to have the cover side modified to accept the new limiter gear. THere is a little "tower" that needs to be ground down and then the hole needs to be deeper for the shaft. (There is a tutorial on this in the tech section I believe. I was able to bypass all of that by taking my old cover to my local junk yard and they swapped me straight across my 87 cover for a 1998 cover already set up for the limiter gear.

gizzo wrote on 05/29/14 at 15:15:02:

I have seen shafts pushed thru soft metal before.  Of course the fix is to increase the area under load.  in other words... bush it as you suggest.  The question is will you increase the area enough to withstand the load?
In my opinion, the parent metal has been contaminated and will never hold the load again.  better to remove the welded portions and redo it with better metal.

Your case is better, you never contaminated your case with poor weld rod.  You just filled in the gaps with equal strength material. (hopefully)

You can patch it, but it might be a better idea to find a bottom end and move everything over to it.  There are a lot more bottom ends available then top ends.  

Thanks for the advice i really like the idea with using the brass and i think i might be able to make that work my dad is a heavy equipment mechanic and a welder by trade so i can have him do that work i really was needing some more detail info about the hole such as.
1. i notice that the "pin" that the gear rides on is hollow so does this hole need to be open at the bottom to allow oil flow?
2 what typically keeps the gear from grinding into the engine case is there a small lip that keeps it spaced apart?
3. how deep does the hole set for the "pin"

thanks for all the advice and help just please keep in mind that im only doing this as a part time project and im not looking to put much money into it i already have 2 other off road toys that do a good job at draining my bank accounts.

on a unrelated note does any one know if its possible to push start these bikes without a battery or is it needed to achieve spark?

I was kinda figuring that but i wasn't sure the last thing i push started was a 87 cr250.

One other thing does anyone have a trick to remove the starter gear and flywheel without having to buy the special puller from suzuki my starter gear has 2-3 teeth missing and i want to replace it while i have it all apart.  
also is the bolt that goes into the "big nut" or rotor a standard thread or reverse ?

Someone built the tool,, sometimes the cost of the tool makes building one worth it,,some people couldnt build the tool no matter what materials & equipment were on hand.. You mite find one to borrow, or buy or make one,,Im sure someone here has built one,