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65747-94 Dyna Install (Read 659 times)
Rush-rks
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65747-94 Dyna Install
02/21/14 at 11:50:59
 
Hello everybody.  

I have 65747-94 Dyna coming for my 06 S40..$30.00 shipped from flea bay and from the pictures it looks perfect and the seller assured me that the baffles are not removed or altered.  

But I want to be sure I have everything I need before I attempt this.  As I will be nervous..I am not very mechanically inclined and I am a pencil pusher by trade but I would like to know a few things.

Do I need the ryca adapter that I have seen over various threads or can I used something else, or even a flexible adapter as seen in places as autozone?.  Also I am confused about the sizing?

Do I need to replace the crush gasket at the head and/or the OEM gasket between the muffer and head pipe?

Do I need to remove the exhaust completely or just loosen it at the head and outlined Serowbots instructions.  I have read his instructions 20 times and read probably 250 posts so I can get the jist of what I have to do.

And to bolt the Dyna to the new hanger, I need 5/16X2 carriage bolts to do that..from pictures I have seen rubber washers?

I am going to do this when I know I have everything I need as my stock muffers sounds like a WV beetle.

Thanks guys Smiley
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2006 Suzuki S40 Boulevard bone stock other than idle-mix adjustment out 3/4 turn from factory setting
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1st2know
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #1 - 02/21/14 at 12:24:03
 
I just did this job, here is what I used:
- cobra 1.75 t-clamp
- cobra 1.75 heat shield.
- 5/16 grade 8 bolt for the rear hanger - I'm using only one bolt.

I couldn't get the tin can to wrap around the header pipe, so I used about 4 layers of aluminum foil. So far, no leaks. Cutting a tin can is a skill that I haven't developed yet Sad

Yeah, you have to remove the whole exhaust. When you install, you'll loosely clamp the muffler to the pipe (with gasket), then tighten the header, then the hanger, then the t-clamp.

Once clamped down good, test for leaks around the joint and at the header - I had a leak around the t-clamp that was obvious - I could feel it put-put with my hand.

The muffler install in the tech section was a good help. Read that a few times while you're waiting for delivery.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1298689417

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Rush-rks
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #2 - 02/21/14 at 12:52:21
 
1st2know wrote on 02/21/14 at 12:24:03:
I just did this job, here is what I used:
- cobra 1.75 t-clamp
- cobra 1.75 heat shield.
- 5/16 grade 8 bolt for the rear hanger - I'm using only one bolt.

I couldn't get the tin can to wrap around the header pipe, so I used about 4 layers of aluminum foil. So far, no leaks. Cutting a tin can is a skill that I haven't developed yet Sad

Yeah, you have to remove the whole exhaust. When you install, you'll loosely clamp the muffler to the pipe (with gasket), then tighten the header, then the hanger, then the t-clamp.

Once clamped down good, test for leaks around the joint and at the header - I had a leak around the t-clamp that was obvious - I could feel it put-put with my hand.

The muffler install in the tech section was a good help. Read that a few times while you're waiting for delivery.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1298689417



Where did you get the t-clamp and the head shield?  And you didnt use any adapter of anykind?

On your bolt..a carriage bolt? and what legnth did you use washers etc. and what did you do for your leak?

Yes I've read that thread probably 50 times I am concerned of getting good seal with no leaks, once I got it whipped I'll cover it up with a heat shield of some sort.  I'm not worried about it sooting up the rear brake I understand that it wipes off easily.  I have to admit the pictures I've seen with an adapter legnthening the muffler past the brake looks a bit better but all those threads a lot had issues of getting a good seal on everything.
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2006 Suzuki S40 Boulevard bone stock other than idle-mix adjustment out 3/4 turn from factory setting
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #3 - 02/21/14 at 13:07:30
 
T-clamp: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I59940
Heat Shield: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I5AR4G
For the bolt, I think it was 1 inch long, square head. You can re-use the original washer. There's a bushing and rubber grommet in the hanger that you will want to re-use.

I used the square head bolt as that allowed me to stick a flat head screw driver in the rail to tighten up the nut. A carriage bolt might work. You want to make sure that the head of the bold is on the narrow part of the rail.

It leaked whenever I tried to fit the tin can gasket in there. I could never get it to fit, so after failing twice, I used aluminum foil (about 4 or 5 layers. That solved the leak problem, but I'm looking for a better tin can to create tighter gasket.
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #4 - 02/21/14 at 13:12:42
 
1st2know wrote on 02/21/14 at 13:07:30:
T-clamp: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I59940
Heat Shield: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I5AR4G
For the bolt, I think it was 1 inch long, square head. You can re-use the original washer. There's a bushing and rubber grommet in the hanger that you will want to re-use.

I used the square head bolt as that allowed me to stick a flat head screw driver in the rail to tighten up the nut. A carriage bolt might work. You want to make sure that the head of the bold is on the narrow part of the rail.

It leaked whenever I tried to fit the tin can gasket in there. I could never get it to fit, so after failing twice, I used aluminum foil (about 4 or 5 layers. That solved the leak problem, but I'm looking for a better tin can to create tighter gasket.


Did you cut the slots in the muffler neck on yours too? Thanks.  Heading over to amazon to do a little shopping. Wink
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #5 - 02/21/14 at 13:54:09
 
It will have at least two slots on it when you get it, I personally cut 4 more, you might get away with cutting two.
Sounds like the tin foil worked if there are no leaks I wouldn't mess with it.
Better yet a combination of heavy duty tin foil and the can as a spacer might be a good deal too, what ever it takes to get it to seal is good as long as it is heat resistant and stays there.

If you are getting a tremendous amount of loud popping on deceleration you more than likely have a leak.

Just follow the directions as best as you can, no worries, its not rocket science and it sounds like you are getting prepaired.

Good luck with your mission..... this post will self destruct in 10 seconds.....9.....8.....7.....6..... Shocked Shocked
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #6 - 02/21/14 at 13:57:42
 
old_rider wrote on 02/21/14 at 13:54:09:
It will have at least two slots on it when you get it, I personally cut 4 more, you might get away with cutting two.
Sounds like the tin foil worked if there are no leaks I wouldn't mess with it.
Better yet a combination of heavy duty tin foil and the can as a spacer might be a good deal too, what ever it takes to get it to seal is good as long as it is heat resistant and stays there.

If you are getting a tremendous amount of loud popping on deceleration you more than likely have a leak.

Just follow the directions as best as you can, no worries, its not rocket science and it sounds like you are getting prepaired.

Good luck with your mission..... this post will self destruct in 10 seconds.....9.....8.....7.....6..... Shocked Shocked

Grin Grin

Ok I had planned to cut the slots but wanted to be sure before I did.  Thanks
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #7 - 02/21/14 at 14:21:50
 
You don't need to remove the entire exhaust from the bike but you should loosen it from the head for adjusting the fit.
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #8 - 02/21/14 at 16:19:32
 
I would pull the entire exhaust. I had to do a lot of twisting to get the stock muffler off the header pipe.  I ended up putting the muffler in my vise so I could twist and wiggle the header pipe off.  I wouldn't want to do all that twisting on the bike, even if the header bolts are loosened. Accidentally snapping off a header bolt would not be fun.

No adapter/extension pipe for me. It did blow a little soot on the rear brake arm. It wipes right off.  I've used both a square head bolts (kept from turning with a screwdriver jammed in the rail) and  carriage bolts on the muffler. I used only one bolt for muffler to bracket.

I made the additional cuts in the muffler inlet. It makes for easier clamping.

Get the whole exhaust system installed and loosely lined up before tightening any mounting bolts. I then tightened the muffler mount, then the header bolts, then the header to muffler clamp.  Any small angle of misalignment at the header to muffler joint can be preserved if you put some extra slots in the muffler inlet tube.
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #9 - 02/22/14 at 10:33:28
 
If the old muffler doesnt want to come off easy, youd better pulle the whole thing down & rassle with it. Those 2 flange bolts arent exacly honkin stuff,, theyre wimpy & you can wreck them & the gasket
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #10 - 02/22/14 at 15:46:11
 
I plan to take it all off before wresting with the muffler.  It looks a little rusty underneath I believe it will take some persuasion to get the old muffer off the headpipe.  I am afraid of damaging the headbolts at the head if I try to do it with the header on.  I don't have a vise I will just have to play tug a war.

Sunny 55 degrees here today..felt good to ride.
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #11 - 02/22/14 at 22:05:12
 
Everything everyone said is correct.  The only item I will ad that helped was using a little squirt of PB break free spray.  I could get my muffler off the header pipe and it came right off.  I hope this helps.
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #12 - 02/22/14 at 22:51:23
 
Ill add just Ooone more little thing.. IF youre havin trouble gettin the new muffler seated up AND you decide to do some grinding on the header,, Make darn sure the battery vent tube isnt ANYwhere near where the sparks are goin,, You CAN ask me how I know,, but thatd just be silly, now wooden it?
& FWIW, it sounded like a 22 went off..
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #13 - 02/23/14 at 07:40:30
 
pg wrote on 02/22/14 at 22:05:12:
Everything everyone said is correct.  The only item I will ad that helped was using a little squirt of PB break free spray.  I could get my muffler off the header pipe and it came right off.  I hope this helps.


Thanks..I'll get some.  I already was going to get anti seize for the headbolts when I put them back on, read that somewhere that may keep me from damaging them.  Fortunately I don't have a torque wrench I'll just be sure no to overtighten them. Do you think I should replace the header gasket while I am at it or are they reusable?
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2006 Suzuki S40 Boulevard bone stock other than idle-mix adjustment out 3/4 turn from factory setting
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Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Reply #14 - 02/23/14 at 07:42:03
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 02/22/14 at 22:51:23:
Ill add just Ooone more little thing.. IF youre havin trouble gettin the new muffler seated up AND you decide to do some grinding on the header,, Make darn sure the battery vent tube isnt ANYwhere near where the sparks are goin,, You CAN ask me how I know,, but thatd just be silly, now wooden it?
& FWIW, it sounded like a 22 went off..


Wow..ok gotcha.  If that need be I'll take it back off to make any adjustments.
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