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Clutch Adjustment? (Read 231 times)
stewmills
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Clutch Adjustment?
06/05/13 at 18:05:10
 
I couldn't find a good answer already, so here it is as simple as I can put it.  2008 with ~2200 miles on it. Oil and all that is good.  When i shift from 2nd to 3rd it seems to be a bit clanky. At around 600 miles on up to ~2000 it used to be a little clanky from 1st to 2nd, but now 1st to 2nd is smooth and it seems to have transitioned up to 2nd to 3rd now.  I am not well educated on the tranny and it's mechanics, so maybe that makes sense, maybe it doesn't?  And I should add that it is not clanky 100% of the time...maybe 75%.  Sometimes it seems that if I have the RPM just right it slides right in, but that's only when I am consciously trying to be easy on her.  Also, the clutch adjustment on the lower case at full rest (no tension) has the silver lever covering the upper tick mark.  I have attached a picture.  Also, the upper clutch lever has the 'specified' slack and it initially engages the gears around 1/3 and fully around 3/4 with the last 1/4 or so being free play so I don't think I am riding at all with the clutch slipping and burning or anything like that...

Do I need to adjust the crank lever up or down, or leave it alone and it is fine as long as it isn't harshly grinding gears? I want to think that it should be smooth through all gears, but this is my first bike so I have no point of reference if this is normal or is an indicator that I am slowly and unknowingly chewing up my clutch or gears?  

Thanks!!!
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tranny.jpg

2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | Rotella T4 | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

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Dave
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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #1 - 06/05/13 at 18:30:21
 
The marks have nothing to do with clutch adjustment....they are wear indicators.....or more appropriately indicators for which length of clutch push rod you should be using.

The clutch should be adjusted to have a small amount of free play at the handlebar lever.  Loosen the cable adjusters and run the one on the handlebar in until it is a couple of turns out, and adjust the bottom one until there is some slack in the cable.  Then lightly push up on the lever at the transmission, and turn the cable adjuster at the engine  until most of the slack is gone, and tighten the lock nut.  Then adjust the handlebar mount until you can move the lever just a little bit before the lever at the engine contacts the clutch operating rod and you feel the tension increase....this is called "free play".  You want about 1/8" of movement of the lever before the cable becomes tight and starts to disengage the clutch.
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stewmills
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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #2 - 06/06/13 at 11:00:44
 
Thanks!
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2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | Rotella T4 | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

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stewmills
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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #3 - 06/15/13 at 10:05:33
 
So..I followed the instructions and the clutch adjustments on both ends (as best I can eyeball) are relatively close to where they were before I loosened everything up and started over.  Took for a test drive for a bit to ensure it was warm and flowing oil (which is full - T6) and I still get a 'clunk' that feels 'clunky' to the touch going from 2nd to 3rd. I tried some minor adjustments at the handlebar and it seemed to just make the 'clunk' sometimes happen in 1st to 2nd, but I can't find that sweet spot to get it smooth all the way through.  4th and 5th are smooth as glass.

Do I need to take more if not entirely all slack out of the case adjustment to get a little more clutch engagement, or am I risking riding with the clutch slipping if I don't leave a little slack down there?

Or, am I fighting a losing battle and it is just how these bikes are.  at 2100 babied miles for the most part, I can't imagine anything internal is going awry.  

Thoughts?

Thanks!
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2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | Rotella T4 | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #4 - 06/15/13 at 10:47:24
 
My new 2013 seems to do the same. Mine has about 1200 miles and has shifted rougher than what I thought was acceptable since it was new. Mostly 1st to 2nd, and sometimes even hanging up in neutral as the shifter passes through. Shifts better at lower RPMs than at the higher end of the range.

I mentioned it to the dealer when I took it in for its' 600 mile sevice and he just said, "It's normal for the break-in period" and his technician "couldn't replicate the condition".

I went on YouTube and watched some vidoes on adjusting the clutch, did it myself, and it seems to be a bit better, although not as smooth as I think it should be.

Right now I'm hoping it will smooth out with time. One of the bikes we had in our riding class was a '94 with 10K miles and it was smooth as silk.
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If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?
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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #5 - 06/15/13 at 12:58:22
 
stewmills wrote on 06/15/13 at 10:05:33:
So..I followed the instructions and the clutch adjustments on both ends (as best I can eyeball) are relatively close to where they were before I loosened everything up and started over.  Took for a test drive for a bit to ensure it was warm and flowing oil (which is full - T6) and I still get a 'clunk' that feels 'clunky' to the touch going from 2nd to 3rd. I tried some minor adjustments at the handlebar and it seemed to just make the 'clunk' sometimes happen in 1st to 2nd, but I can't find that sweet spot to get it smooth all the way through.  4th and 5th are smooth as glass.

Do I need to take more if not entirely all slack out of the case adjustment to get a little more clutch engagement, or am I risking riding with the clutch slipping if I don't leave a little slack down there?

Or, am I fighting a losing battle and it is just how these bikes are.  at 2100 babied miles for the most part, I can't imagine anything internal is going awry.  

Thoughts?

Thanks!


Take a look at the rod that goes from the shifter to the lever on the shaft that comes out of the case. Make sure it's not bent.

http://www.bikebandit.com/1998-suzuki-savage-650-ls650p/o/m147778#sch242548

Part No. 36 in the diagram.

OdysseueusNY was just having a problem that sounds similar to yours and that's what he discovered the trouble was.
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stewmills
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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #6 - 06/15/13 at 14:30:08
 
Thanks folks. It seems that 'Brunkster' and I have the same issue, so at least I know it isn't me being crazy. I have checked my part #36 (the shifter linkage) and it's all good.

Brunkster, I also get the hanging in neutral a lot as well. so for what it's worth you're not making things up despite what the stealership says they can't duplicate.
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2008 | 152/52.5–Air Mix 3/4 | Rotella T4 | Seat Lift w/Sheepskin | Speedo Rattle | Rear Pulley Shim | 140/90-15 Rear | Kaw Front Pulley | Relocated Rear Signals

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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #7 - 06/16/13 at 18:13:03
 
My '06 has now almost 19,000 miles on it and it has done that all this time. Not always, but often. I have messed around with that as well, but given up on trying to figure out what causes it. I can have several days where it shifts pretty smooth, and then followed by several days of the same 1-2 and 2-3 stubborness you guys describe. On days where it's stubborn, the 4-5 is smooth. On days where the low gears are shifting smooth, the 4-5 is rough. I have no idea why it's like that.
Although from 2-3 was always more of a pop than any others, whereas the 3-2 is almost too easy as I sometimes wind up all the way in 1st instead.
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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #8 - 06/17/13 at 04:15:39
 
Yea I get a weird shifting issue when it's really hot out.  It's temperamental going from 4th to 5th, and if sitting at a light neutral to 1st (sitting at a light for a while with someone already behind me).  Fresh Rotella T6 and topped off to where it should be checked before each ride.
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Re: Clutch Adjustment?
Reply #9 - 04/26/19 at 14:13:50
 
Thanks Dave. I followed your instructions to the letter just know and I think I may actually have the clutch adjusted just right. I just went for a 2 minute 4 mile ride and the clutch did not slip! Cool
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