I have started a blog about this project pictures are there.  Constructive critisim is welcom.

http://thelycanproject.blogspot.com/

I agree with disconnecting everything and slowly start making the connections again one by one until the culprit shows itself  This can be long and tedious but will actually save time versus chasing down all the possibilities with everything hooked up.

Check for AC voltage on the three yellow wires coming from the stator, under the seat... any two of those wires should give 100v AC, when you rev up the engine rpm's... (manual says at 5k rpm, but, just see if it's puttin' out pretty good) mine was reading 5 to 12v AC... when it was bad...

cafecarl wrote on 04/11/13 at 11:22:33:

Yep, the cdi connector is different, but you can just clip the old one off and put it on the new harnass.

next the front brake switch is different. but I don't remember if the hook up is the same.

Quote:


Yes, it's 100Volts AC. Alternators only produce alternating current. The rectifier/voltage regulator changes it to DC and drops the voltage to around 14 or so.

When I started the bike for the last time before I started the disassemble I noticed a little puff of smoke from the starter wire but the bike started and idled.  When I removed the starter and set it aside I was able to turn the spindle freely.  When I picked it up yesterday it seemed stiff, but I rewired everything and gave it a try.  Nothing happened when I hit the starter.  I checked the wiring and tryed again, nothing.  I removed the starter and removed the end caps.  It appears that the last effort when the bike started completely fried the starter.  It turned freely then as it cooled locked down.  I traced back and found a bare spot on the starter wire where it had rubbed through the insulation.  This maybe my problem but after the bike was running wouldn't the solenoid have shut off power to the starter motor?  I have taken the starter to my local guy who repairs starters and alternators I have also taken the solenoid to have it checked.  I will have to put any other test off until I get the starter back.  I will post again after I get the starter back.

Ok, I installed the new starter and left everything I deemed to be unimportant unplugged lights horn so forth. The bike cranked and idled pretty well.  The battery had set for a few days but read 10.6  DC volts with the meter before I installed it in the bike.  once the bike was idling I unplugged the stator from the rectifier.  I get 46.6 volts AC across all poles at idle.  I was by myself so unable to turn the bike up to 5000 or so RPM, which will be a guess anyway without a tachometer, this is where I should get 110 volts AC, at 5000 rpm right?  I could not get a stable reading coming out of the rectifier for DC voltage.  But the DC voltage at the battery at idle is a steady 13.7 volts.  This is as it should be, right?  

when I removed the rear fender I discovered a rats nest (loose ened wiring) on the rear wiring for the lights.  The head light works fine but the turn signals are on all the time and do not flash when I turn on the signals they just get brighter.  I am assuming there is a problem here as well either in the lights or the flasher or both.  

Went back and checked the stator output at elevated RPMs.  I could get a reading of over 100 volts from the stator and the battery would show over 14 volts at higher rpms.  I am assuming that the charging system is OK.  I removed all lights and replaced the  turn signals with simple ones I had removed from a GS500F I had previously owned.   These seem to function perfectly.  

If I place the positive voltage meter lead on the starter lead and the negative lead to ground (the frame) What voltage should I get when the starter switch is depressed?