Just bought a 96 and got it running.

When I press on the rear brake pedal, there is not much movement and the bolt adjustment at the end of the cable (rear of bike)  seems to be at the end. The stopping distance feels long on the rear, though I did get it to lock up.


The local shop said $60 in labor.

Is this a job to take on my self or should I leave it to the shop?
Does it require special tools?
I have a lift, but I have never taken a tire off and I don't uderstand the mechanices of a drum break.

I'm thinking for $60, this is a job for the local shop.

Advice?

Greg wrote on 03/16/13 at 15:33:56:


What about actually chaning the rear brakes?

JRLeathercraft wrote on 03/16/13 at 15:23:59:

 These bikes are tinker toys when it comes to things like this.  A basic set of tools and a Clymer manual,.. you're ready to go.  The first time you change the rear brakes it'll take a couple of hours.  The next time, it'll take an hour, tops.

You don't have to take the tire off for this job.  All you have to do is remove the wheel and tire together as one piece.

Piece of cake. Loosen the axle nut. Jack up the bike with a floor jack under the emissions shelf (the funny little fin under the seat, behind the muffler). Remove axle nut. Remove brake arm nuts, the one on the linkage and the one on the support rod. Tap axle out with a dowel, yank out dowel, wheel should fall on your toe.   Brake plate lifts out, flip it over, grasp both shoes and flip them toward the middle. Remove spring, put everything back together in the reverse order. You can/should apply a small dab of grease where the brake shoes touch the mounting pins, and a bit more on the axle shaft.

It actually takes longer to type than to do. While the bike is still on the jack, spin the rear wheel by hand and adjust the shoe travel (tighten the nut on the brake linkage). Once the brake feels right, take it for a test ride, get the bike p to 20 or so and stop with the rear brake only. Do this a couple times, readjust the linkage nut, check the axle nut tension and call it good.

EBC organic brake shoes are $46.95 at Bike Bandit.

Stock shoes are $40, plus $60 labor...

My rear brake, works like an on-off switch... if the shoe ever manages to wear out,...
I expect an improvement in sensitivity... ...

...(not that ever use it enough to wear it out)... 30k, and counting...
...

Guys, please read his original post again -- he is describing stock brakes that are working normally.   He says they work, he can lock up the rear wheel for goodness sakes.    His shop is trying to rip him off ($60 plus labor indeed) replacing things that aren't broken.   He is a new rider, he does not know how the brakes should feel -- that's all.

If his adjustment nut is out at the end of the threaded rod, they are not even worn very much yet.  

Teach him how to adjust the brakes rather than send him in for a $30 goose chase replacing what isn't worn out.


JRLeathercraft wrote on 03/16/13 at 15:23:59:

OK, listen up.

Your rear brake is cable driven, and the cable stretches over time.

We also have an issue with rear brakes being adjusted too "tight" and they are dragging all the time (this wastes gas and limits your top speed some).

Tell me how far your foot moves the petal to get the rear brake to start slowing the bike any at all.   (you must do all these tests with the bike rolling at normal parking lot speeds)

There should be some amount of petal motion with NO EFFECT, or else you don't have enough slack in the system and you are dragging your brakes.

My set up currently has a bit over 1/2" (closer to 3/4") of free play before the rear brake engages any  at all.

Where your petal sits in space is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT from this adjustment.  This is the adjustment out at the end of the cable/rod set at the rear wheel lever arm.


=======================


Next, forget about sliding the rear wheel type braking forces on the rear brake set -- you should NEVER be able to reach these levels of braking on the rear brake unless you are in a full panic stop and even then you shouldn't slide the rear wheel, ever.   If the rear wheel slides you have lost control of the bike.

The rear brakes are simply an adder force to the front brake, where most of the braking force is done.   This is in line with good braking practices.

Your rear brake should be able to be put into play by taking up the intentional 1/2" of slack then lightly actuating the brake.  Getting more force is possible, but is rarely needed.

Once you get your rear brake correctly adjusted, then we will talk about where it is compared to the wear out range (and talk about your rear drum lever and it's adjustment range).

Then lastly we will talk about where your petal sits in space.

you will want a helper if you drop the rear wheel..