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Clutch slip cure. (Read 766 times)
Gyrobob
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #15 - 09/11/12 at 08:43:13
 
Seafoam, Rislone, MMO, Berryman's Chemtool, etc., are nothing but types of solvents.  No miracle cures for anything.  If you need a solvent, use one.  Otherwise, especially in crankcases, use really good oil and leave it alone.  For our bikes, that means Rotella T or T6.

BTW, my fav is Berryman's Chemtool.  That is a STRONG solvent.  I would never put it in a crankcase.  It is useful as a general shop item.
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #16 - 09/11/12 at 08:45:28
 
Curiously, a common trick in extremely cold climates is to put some gasoline in the crankcase just before shutting down an aircraft engine.  Then, the next morning, the oil will be thin enough to allow the starter to crank the engine over, and, after warm up, will just evaporate off as the oil gets hot.
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Gyrobob
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #17 - 09/11/12 at 08:48:27
 
bill67 wrote on 09/11/12 at 08:46:36:
Charon your the one wanting to start and argument,Says something not any good when you never tried it.You should have geared your GR650 higher(1000rpm less) instead of saying it wasn't a good idea,I drove mine 28000 miles and I loved it that way.I did it you didn't so how would you know.


I've tried it.  It's just a grossly overpriced solvent.
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #18 - 09/11/12 at 12:20:27
 
buffyporson wrote on 09/11/12 at 04:59:23:
I started using cheap Walmart brand 20/50 - clutch slipped.



Chalk up another car oil 20-50w "clutch slipper" on my list of Why Clutches Slip

Sad

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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #19 - 09/11/12 at 14:38:35
 
rfw2003 wrote on 09/11/12 at 05:05:25:
buffyporson wrote on 09/11/12 at 04:59:23:
I started using cheap Walmart brand 20/50 - clutch slipped. Changed to Shell Diesel Rottela - clutch still slipped. Changed back to Walmart brand. I have also tried using the different length clutch push rods which also made no difference provided the clutch cable was adjusted correctly.

The oil is def an issue here.   Depending on how long you ran that CAR oil in your bike will decide on what needs to be done.   If it wasn't very long several flushes with a non-friction modifier oil will wash all that crap outta your clutch.  Now if you have been running it for awhile, you will have to take apart the clutch and do some sanding to get the crap off of the plates.   Another thing about the oil you have been using,  it doesn't have near enough of the high pressure additives to keep your Savage's motor alive.  

R.F.

Once that oil gets on your plates, it's hard to get off.

OF has a thread on clutch cleaning, maybe he'll treat you to a link.
But the basics are there.
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #20 - 09/11/12 at 14:52:31
 
yeah I was just summing it up.   Here is the post were OF talkes about how to clean them.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1270678838/9#9
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #21 - 09/11/12 at 16:46:29
 
Gyrobob wrote on 09/11/12 at 08:45:28:
Curiously, a common trick in extremely cold climates is to put some gasoline in the crankcase just before shutting down an aircraft engine.  Then, the next morning, the oil will be thin enough to allow the starter to crank the engine over, and, after warm up, will just evaporate off as the oil gets hot.

That was before the existence of multi-grade oils. Also, the gasoline won't fully evaporate and will leave you with a permanently thinner oil.
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #22 - 09/11/12 at 18:37:57
 
LANCER wrote on 09/10/12 at 04:09:04:
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/09/12 at 22:42:28:
Gyrobob wrote on 09/09/12 at 12:16:57:
Cavi Mike wrote on 09/09/12 at 11:50:09:
What oil are you using?


A critically important question, eh?



Absolutely critical question.,



YEP


Yup.
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #23 - 09/11/12 at 18:56:15
 
Cavi Mike wrote on 09/11/12 at 16:46:29:
Gyrobob wrote on 09/11/12 at 08:45:28:
Curiously, a common trick in extremely cold climates is to put some gasoline in the crankcase just before shutting down an aircraft engine.  Then, the next morning, the oil will be thin enough to allow the starter to crank the engine over, and, after warm up, will just evaporate off as the oil gets hot.

That was before the existence of multi-grade oils. Also, the gasoline won't fully evaporate and will leave you with a permanently thinner oil.


Don't tell that to my buds up in AK that are still doing it. They've made their living up there for decades doing these things.  They'll be surprised when you tell them it doesn't work.
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #24 - 09/11/12 at 19:29:06
 
Gyrobob wrote on 09/11/12 at 08:45:28:
Curiously, a common trick in extremely cold climates is to put some gasoline in the crankcase just before shutting down an aircraft engine.  Then, the next morning, the oil will be thin enough to allow the starter to crank the engine over, and, after warm up, will just evaporate off as the oil gets hot.


I have heard of doing this, too, but had forgotten about it until you brought it up. Seems to me while most of the gasoline will evaporate out, it will leave behind such additives as lead. Older AVGAS had more lead than modern 100LL, but it is still there. Perhaps fairly frequent oil changes help. Wouldn't surprise me to find some cars and trucks get the same treatment.

Another helpful thing with airplane engines is the practice of hand propping them over a few times before start attempts. It "limbers" them up, and also as a fringe benefit makes sure there isn't a hydrostatic lock.

Some airplane operators were known to drain engine oil into a suitable bucket, and leave that bucket on or near the stove so it stayed warm. Then the warm oil was poured back into the engine for the next day's start. Bringing the battery inside wouldn't hurt, either.

All of which comments are completely off the topic of the cure for a slipping clutch.
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #25 - 09/12/12 at 00:41:01
 
If I have to mix gas with the oil just to get it going in the cold, I'm heading straight south for a few thousand miles.  Grin But I do remember my uncle building a small fire under his old pickup oil pan on cold mornings. If you're old enough to remember the 6 volt systems on those old vehicles, you may have seen it yourself. That was back when men was men.  Grin
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #26 - 09/12/12 at 08:17:48
 
Say what you want about Wal-mart car oil. I just hit 50,000 miles on my Savage using nothing but.  Most high speed riding over 60. Never a oil leak and never had a repair on the engine. Runs as good as new. By the way, still on the second cam chain. changed the first at 33,000 miles but it didn't need it really. Sick of oil talk and people who say you need $6 a qt oil. Sometimes I mix different brands together.   Makes no difference. Savage Greg has been in my engine and said it looked like new.
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #27 - 09/12/12 at 08:41:53
 
stinger wrote on 09/12/12 at 08:17:48:
Say what you want about Wal-mart car oil. I just hit 50,000 miles on my Savage using nothing but.  Most high speed riding over 60. Never a oil leak and never had a repair on the engine. Runs as good as new. By the way, still on the second cam chain. changed the first at 33,000 miles but it didn't need it really. Sick of oil talk and people who say you need $6 a qt oil. Sometimes I mix different brands together.   Makes no difference. Savage Greg has been in my engine and said it looked like new.




Theres some of that "The proof is in the pudding"..That "cheap" oil clearly doesnt have the friction modifiers in it, so, in lieu of that expensive chemical package, what IS in there? I wonder if its still got some ZDDP,,
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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #28 - 09/12/12 at 12:28:52
 

Stinger, which Wally oil was that, brand, type and weight?

Just about every Wally oil has VOA and UOA data available on BITOG, so we can likely take a look at what's in it.

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Re: Clutch slip cure.
Reply #29 - 09/12/12 at 15:57:13
 
"Another helpful thing with airplane engines is the practice of hand propping them over a few times before start attempts. It "limbers" them up, and also as a fringe benefit makes sure there isn't a hydrostatic lock."
To the best of my knowledge, which is limited, this is only necessary if the engine is a rotary, or inverted. This is because some oil will settle in the cylinders and cause hydro lock if you don't first cycle the motor to get the oil out of the cylinders. This is one of the reasons that these engines smoke like mad when they are first started up- the oil is burning off in the exhaust manifold.
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