You probably wouldn't ever need a multi-viscosity oil where you live anyways, they're only needed in cold climates. Here's all you need to know about viscosity oils.

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

Thanks - That was a very informative description of mulit-grade oils.  It did not realy explain why the Clymer's Manual believes better break in occurs with straight weight oils....but does confirm that I probably don't actually need a multi-grade in my motorcycle.  My riding window really occurs between 60 and 100 degrees...with most really being between 70 and 90.  And our weather changes pretty slowly for the most part, so I could easily changes between 30 and 40 weights when spring/summer/fall arrived.

The only problem for most people would be to find a convenient source of mono-grade oils for motorcycle use......that have not only the the required ZDDP.....but also have the additives necessary for seal protection and clean running.  Most of the straight grade oils I see listed are Racing oils and have plenty of ZDDP - but may not have the necessary stuff for long term use.  This is not a problem for the break period which will only take a few weeks.

(There is a lengthy oil thread that is currently discussing the type of oil to use for continual use.....I am only intendending to explore the break in period in this thread).

I did look at the Lucas Breank in Additive and they claim mixing their bottle with 4.5 quarts of oil provides 5,000 ppm of ZDDP.  This bottle was $ 18 and I intend to mix a bit less than half with the 2 quarts my bike will take.  It has been written elsewhere that 1,200 ppm of ZDDP is all that is necessary for a bike that is broken in, and mixing this bottle with 18 quarts of oil will provide a level of about 1,200 ppm - which means about $ 1.00 a quart for the additive.
http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/17_EngineBreak_InAdditve_TBzinc.pdf

If ZDDP keeps metal from wearing,Why would the motor break in faster.

Break in oil is for old style flat tappet push rod car engines, the first few miles and proper lube are reguired for the cam lobes, heavy spring tension and flat tappets are hard on cam lobes.

Motorcycle engines are not near as hard on the cam lobes.

Corvettes come with Mobil 1 so they don't use brake in oil.

I broke in my (rebuilt by me) chevy small block with 10-40 pennzoil for 800 miles, then switched to Mobile 1 syn.  93 k miles still running great uses about 1/2 quart per 4000 hard farm miles pulling trailers etc. It has a mild cam with hydro flat tappets or lifters as some call them.

Corvettes and most cars for 10 years or more use roller lifters total different animal that do not need high levels of zinc due to far less friction.

High spring pressures dirty or really cheap oil causes most cam wear. This wonderfull stuff called ethanol wears out cylinders and rings because it thins the oil at the top of the cyl.

 
Ain't Lucas funny?    Their motorcycle oil isn't much to write home about and they won't recommend their own break in booster for motorcycle wet clutches.

You may have to order it online, but the RedLine break in ZDDP booster uses a synthetic base oil and I have used a couple of bottles of it in my Savage over the years, both breaking in and simple bumping -- no clutch slippage yet.  No issues of any sort, really, and I do wang my thang a bit more so than many do.

Dave, we are trying to go back up where the air is thin again in September.   You interested?