It's gone now?...
Probably just needed to pull up some oil after sitting...

I believe the noise is serious......scored piston/cylinder, rod, bearing, etc.  Engines need oil to survive....without it the engine lasts about 16 miles......or whatever distance the fellow that ran without oil went after the dealer forgot to add the oil.

What kind of mechanical skill do you have?  I believe you will be able to buy a used engine for about what it would cost to fix this one.  I just ordered a gasket kit, sealing washers, main beaings, counterbalance bearings, valve seals.....and I had about $ 320 worth of stuff.  If you need a piston, cylinder, etc.....then it gets costly.  A new piston, rings and bore will probaby add $ 250 - $ 300.....

Dave wrote on 07/29/12 at 19:00:31:


I don't have much mechanical knowledge other than being able to change the brakes, oil, fan motor, and a couple other parts in my car.  If I bought a motorcycle manual, do you think I'd be able to do this repair myself?

Jason wrote on 07/30/12 at 14:55:56:

OK, looks like I missed the non clicking one was your GF's.
I'm gonna agree with dave, but I think this maybe outta your league to fix... right.  The noises could be coming from either down low or on top.  

Cam, rockers are pretty easy to replace.
piston, rebore not hard.
bottom bearings, you'll have to split the case.  haven't been there... yet.

So there you go, 1st two you can do, 3rd IDK.
If you do the 1st two and it ends up being the 3rd, lotta wasted cabbage.

You can tear it down and find out whats wrong, but be prepared to pick up another. I think that's the way I'd go.  Or you can keep riding till it won't bring you home.  hopefully it's a short walk.

Quote:


The manual is pretty good about helping you out and making the steps pretty systematic......you will need some special tools.  An impact screw driver is necessary for getting the phillips head screws loose.  There are not many of these screws - but the ones it has are tight and you will not be able to loosen them with a screwdriver.  You could start by taking the engine down to see where the damage is:  Head, Piston/cycinder, lower end bearings.  If you get to the lower end and it is in bad shape....moneywise you should probably just get a replacement engine - which requires the least amount of mechanical aptitude.  The 32 mm countershaft nut is a size that is not found in most peoples toolbox - you may need to go borrow that from someone.  If you need to split the case - you need a puller for the alternator rotor and a 46mm deep socket for the flywheel nut.

If you have never had an engine apart......the Savage is about as easly as they come......but it is still a task that requires some experience and/or a good willing helper with some previous experience.    

And engine swap is easily done in a long day - and engine tear down and rebuild will require 3-4 days and a good clean work area.  I am currently in the process on my bike, and with the initial tear down, analysis, parts ordering, waiting for parts to arrive, and putting it back together......I am guessing 6 weeks will pass.

No to the maintenance questions. The bike has about 9000 miles on it and I've owned it since May. I'm going to drain the oil and see if there's anything in it. Is it possible that it's a broken seal? Not sure if that would explain the clicking though. I'll report back with the magnet results.


justin_o_guy2 wrote on 07/30/12 at 17:23:57:

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 08/04/12 at 08:41:04:


That's actually what my girlfriends dad said.  He worked on Harleys for a long time and built cars in the Ford motor plant for 30 years.  He knows his nuts, but has been out of town a lot.  Do you think it could be time for a valve adjustment?  Where would I find the best information or a tutorial on how to perform one? Thanks so much!