I can remember we used to put those "glass packs" on cars - the paint would turn dark brown or black and flake off.

I have had pretty good luck with those rattle cans of heat paint.  The surface must be absolutely clean - you won't get good results if you spray the paint over stuff that can't handle the heat.  Sand or bead blasting is the best way to go - plug the ends or the inside will be filled with loose sand.

The fresh paint must be cured.  I most often am painting small chainsaws or lawn mower mufflers.  I start the curing process by hanging it inside my car while I am at work - then when I get home  they fit in my wife's oven (when she is not home and the house windows are open).  The last heat paint I used claimed to be ceramic and needed to be heated at 250F for 30 minutes than cooled, 400F for 30 minutes and cooled, then 600 for 30 minutes and cooled.  If you want to heat cure it on the bike it will require that you start the bike and let it idle just until the muffler gets warm....then cool it off.  Repeat this often and let it get a little bit hotter each time - don't rush it or the paint will fail.  When you have done this long enough it will be as durable as it is made to be.....not sure if it can handle a motorcycle exhaust.

heroicseven wrote on 06/09/12 at 16:57:02:


I was thinking of painting my header pipe instead of wrapping it. Paint is much cheaper! Do you have any photos of your bike with the painted header?

its currently in a few pieces, working on the plug leak and waiting
patiently for my verslavy, so sorry no pics,

but... I painted it because the chrome and rubber boot stains were very unsightly, It looked better than the chrome and burnt bits, but the black was very dull.
When I get the motor running sound and leaking minimally I will go with the wrap, I feel it looks A LOT better than the flat black paint. But they sell some clear enamel, maybe that would help finish it up so its not so dull. Ive yet to try it. so not much help there.