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Changing Fork Seals (Read 107 times)
greenmonster
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Changing Fork Seals
05/25/12 at 14:14:05
 
Hi folks,

I'm changing my fork seals and to get the darn things apart you need to hold the inside still. Well, it turns out that I have enough extenders to get all the way down inside. Now my question is... What size allen key do I need down there? It's not an M8, all the posts I've found on the subject talk about using a nut or the head of a bolt but nothing seems to say an actuall size if you have the tools for it.

Thanks in advance.
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arteacher
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Re: Changing Fork Seals
Reply #1 - 05/25/12 at 15:32:52
 
A hex bolt 24mm across the flats. I just happened to have the damper and a caliper sitting here.
If you have an impact wrench, just leave it all together and the pre-load of the springs will hold the damper still so you can take the bolts out of the bottom.
Some people have carved the end of a broom handle to fit in the damper and used that.
I just took mine to the dealer and he charged me $20 to do it.
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white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt
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greenmonster
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Re: Changing Fork Seals
Reply #2 - 05/28/12 at 14:32:28
 
I went to RONA and bought a 5/8" nut, welded it to an old and busted Socket I had kicking around. That screw didn't stand a chance once I was prepared.

Then I ran into the Stopper Ring. The Clymer and everything I can find on here says "Remove the stopper ring from the slider."
....*blink blink*.... How?

I've tried prying it out with a scribe, and I can't get a set of pliers down in there to get a grip on it. How do I simply remove it?
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arteacher
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Re: Changing Fork Seals
Reply #3 - 05/28/12 at 14:44:56
 
Use a small screw driver and pry out one end, move the screw driver around while prying until it's free. Mine were rusted in and I had to use some penetrating oil first.
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white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt
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greenmonster
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Re: Changing Fork Seals
Reply #4 - 05/28/12 at 14:46:59
 
That was my first attempt. The metal I was prying against started to fold before the clip moved.
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arteacher
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Re: Changing Fork Seals
Reply #5 - 05/28/12 at 14:51:01
 
You sure you were prying on the clip? They are not that strong when new, and they are fine enough wire that they might be hard to see if you don't have enough light.
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white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt
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greenmonster
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Re: Changing Fork Seals
Reply #6 - 05/28/12 at 16:48:23
 
Definately the clip.

I actually picked up a good condition set of forks from my local salvage ship for about the price I'd for one new fork tube. The fork tube that is on my bike looks like somebody went to town on it with a ball peen hammer. The clip that was in this one is about 1/16" thick and feels like it was made out of hardened steel. I got it out, but it's not going back in. Mangled.

I don't know what the previous owner was doing with this set either, cause when I opened it out, there is no Spacer in there. I took the cap off and the next thing I say was the spring seat and the fork spring.
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greenmonster
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Re: Changing Fork Seals
Reply #7 - 05/29/12 at 07:55:14
 
I have some pipe here that looks like it's about the right size. Does anyone know the measurements of the spacer that goes above the spring? OD, ID, Length, and if there are any holes in it?
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skeebo
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Re: Changing Fork Seals
Reply #8 - 05/29/12 at 08:45:03
 

 No holes, thin wall tubing (22ga.) about 1 1/4 od  x  4'' long, thicker wall tubing wont hurt.
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95'......Its Kinda Like Bobber Rode A Rat Bike To A Cafe Race.....Thing
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