Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 05/26/12 at 11:47:47:


Now I regret not following my instincts and staying clear of the foray. Substitute any two oils named here (or in other oil threads) for Ford vs Chevy, and the age old war of opinions continues...   only the subjects change.

And darn that Suzuki for specifying an oil that was already 12 years obsolete when my bike was made, and having the audacity to print it in the manual!   OF replies:  In their defense the spec was current when the bike was first designed and built -- it is our US government (CAFE standards) that caused the oil itself to shift out from under the bike like it did.  Seriously, my only point was that I'm staying with manufacturer recommendations, as I have always done with the rest of my stable (including a BMW GS with catalytic).

Why were my posts edited? OF: Just keeping count of the 3 free shots that I promised the newbies at the start of the oil war. I did so much searching about this stuff and all I've found is a bunch of debates on a bunch of other motorbike and oil forums, all complete with no straight answers. The best answers I could find were on BobTheOilGuy and apparently the specs that Shell posts actually do meet JASO specs but they also don't list some of the other specs that are required for the JASO cert.

 
Now, has every body been issued their kevlar underwear and have they been issued their main battle rifle and hand grenades?

Are we ready to begin?    Three free shots were offered and three were taken, so I guess I can respond now.

=======================

Dear Uno

First, quoting out of country specs in an attempt to mislead folks is kinda like cheating -- Kalamazoo is not located in Canada, is it?

Current American spec'd Rotella T dino 15w40 is certified for JASO DH2 and MA which are the current specifications for Japanese cars (DH2 now, used to be MA2) and Japanese motorcycles (MA).  Ditto for T6, but we weren't talking about T6 earlier, now were we?   Trying to cloud the water with a synthetic when you and Routy were clearly talking about dino 15w40 doesn't help your position much either.  

Next,  your molecule thing is still ridiculous,  here are your own words yet again.   My, it certainly does sound like you were talking about Rotella T 15w40, doesn't it?

"Bet you Rotellers don’t know what the fricking “T” stands for behind Rotella.  In lubrication circles it stands for model T like a Ford.  It is old technology.  The multi-vis molecule  that makes it a 15-40 is shaped like a curly spring.  Expansion and contraction at different temps make it get bigger and smaller.  It’s a very strong molecule with strong bonds.
However, it’s too strong and it doesn’t shear but bends making it a thicker wad to pass though the tight clearances within your GASOLINE engine, thus starving the film of lube between the critical parts with golf ball sized lubrication molecules."

Golf ball sized, huh?



Cavie, yes Rotella products were originally developed and sold for diesel engines.   And they have been used in motorcycles for decades now because they have all the ZDDP we need and none of the energy star moly crap we DON'T need.   They are now recognized by most motorcycle sites as "motorcycle oil" nowdays as they meet all the requirements of the JASO rating board and are JASO certified for both Japanese diesel cars and Japanese gasoline motorcycles.

Cavie, no, your PDF file is either out of country or out of date, both USA Rotella products are JASO rated in the USA and have been for over a year now.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rotella+jaso+ma&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=ubun...

Next, what was removed from your posts?   If I did it, it was inadvertent I assure you.


  Hey Bill, how's it going?     Try to help them out if you can, they need it.

Nothing was removed. I'm over it. No harm, no foul. Thank you for the information, I'll definitely keep it and spread it if I come across the discussion elsewhere.

You sunk my Battleship, Oldfellow.
I defer to your superior updated knowledge.

It was a fun ride and I got my post numbers up writing about one of the reasons why Shell reformulated Rotella T over the past ten years.

I’m basically here to learn about my motorcycle and have fun doing it and that I did.  Thank you for taking the time, Oldguy.

Do you really believe that anyone would think a golf ball sized lubrication molecule is real?  If you do I’ve got a slightly used toy Yoda that you could talk to when the one in your head has a tummy ache.

I use Shell Rotella... 'cause all the smartest bikers I know use it...
(saves me having to think for myself)... ...


... but,.. any quality brand name 10w-40 is fine.. as long as it ain't "fuel saving" specialty oil...
Don't ever use "house brand" oil, e.g., Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Kmart, etc... in anything but door hinges...
... and only in door hinges of people you don't like... ...

I agree with Serowbot. I know about shearing molecules and what heat does and all that technical stuff, but I was paying $24 a gallon and my friends were RACING $10,000 bikes with Rotella. Sometimes you got to quit reading and thinking and just look around. Turned over 20,000 last Friday. 13,000 mine and about 10,000 on Rotella. Use what you like. Just keep it clean.  

Higher priced oils have a better package with more of the stuff that is good for an engine like zinc not just the bare minimum to get certified. This engine uses so little oil and runs so hot why not give it the good stuff??  As several people have said change it often, gears brake down the good stuff cheap even faster...........

You guys that dont like synthethic oil, as an experiment dig deep and buy some mobile 1 or amsoil and try it...you WILL notice the engine is quieter and shifts alot smoother and your gas mileage will be better due to less friction the syn oil provides.