Dear Verslagen,
The other trick is to heat the dural and write on it with a matchstick
( the wood) If the temp is ok, it will leave a black trail. The soap trick is easier. Use the matchstick if you do not have soap.
(but who does not have a bar of soap in this forum?
)
I make limb prostheses for a living and 40 years ago, many where still made from alumininum. The socket was cut out of a sheet, bended into a pipe , riveted and then the shape made with hammers on metal bars or lead. Steel hammers to stretch and hard rubber to shrink. Thank god for plastic, the noise was unbearable. Just wondering why you still need annealed aluminium.
Wondering as well about your name! I am Dutch and verslagen sounds Dutch and means beaten (as in lost). (My name is peter poetsma).
If we have dural bars that are to soft, we keep them in the oven used daily around 200C and after several days they become harder.
I was told that the repeated slow cooling and heating changes the structure to becomes harder.
Its a pleasure to be part of the forum. lots to share and more to learn.
And just because I got me a S40. Good deal!
Went today to pick-up my saddle bags and saddle cushion by the local (horse) saddle maker. Now fiddling a way to keep them from touching the backwheel.
Greetings from Managua
Regards
Stamper (thats Dutch for thumper)