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Advise: Pull motor or not? (Read 215 times)
justin_o_guy2
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #15 - 11/10/11 at 06:55:18
 
Ride 'er till she blows.


Sounds cool & all, but in practice, maybe not such a great idea.You ride with a finger over the clutch lever? If it "blows" & locks up while youre running thru a sweeper, youll be down in less time than it takes to think "Crap!". YOu suspect the engine has a fatal wound, because of the vibration, right? I think you should have a look inside & see whats going on,
If you cant see, you cant see,, but Id sure be having a look..
Tell us more about the engine, how it sounds, howe it feels, rpm related racket,,
I wish I had a pic of it before you patched it.
I know how much work you put in it,, I sure hate that it got boogered up like that./

I dont follow closely, on a bike or in a car. Ive found a good %age of drivers follow me at a greater distance when I am following the lead car at a greater distance.. IDK why. Ive also found that wne I am coming to a red light & I want to turn right, If I will hold to the left & stay right by the line, the car in front will often do the same, then when I get there, there is room to slip by on the right.. people are amazing.
Doesnt work all the time, some people just Have to tailgate & some dont seem aware of anyone else on the road & dont use the rear view, either.
If Im being tail;gated, I slow down till Ive got them slowed down, then I speed away to establish distance, then I settle to the right speed. I can deliver that "hint" till they figure it out or they pass me,
Dont tailgate & dont allow yourself to be tailgated. Being tailgated is dangerous because you are forced to constantly monitor what theyre doing. Takes away from the attention you need to be paying to whats happening in front. You mita dodged that rock had you been more focused in front & less in the mirrors,. But maybe you were too close,, IDK,m, I wasnt there. You can "run the tape" again & think about it.
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #16 - 11/10/11 at 10:19:43
 
Well while in the peace coprs a while back ... we had 2 similar situations with a bike ... rock .. crankcase ... big crack ... one was fix using leather adheared to the extremely well cleaned crank case after the engine had been removed tip upside down and completely cleaned a good sized leather patch and a generous amount of epoxy which is all JB weld is with aluminum powder filler to disapate the engine heat ... it  held well over a year and that bike got sold in running order .. the 2nd very similar problem we have the local weld shop heliarc an aluminum patch in place with out ever opening up the engine .. put it back to gether and it was still running fine a year later too ... so just some other thoughts as there were no spare parts for the bikes in all of Jamaica at the time .. good luck
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drums1
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #17 - 11/10/11 at 11:38:18
 
JoG--Bike sounds ok idling. 20,000 miles, Verslavy on OE chain. Once I get going, I start to hear what I think is belt noise, in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Only does it when clutch is engaged, giving it throttle. As soon as I let off gas, or pull in clutch lever, noise stops. Kind of a whirring, metalic gear meshing sound. I vaselined the belt one day and the noise almost went away completely, for 100 miles or so.

In 3rd or 4th gear, any hard throttle causes a low end clunking, rapping kind of noise. I do 1st gear up to 15 mph or so, then 2nd gear up to 25 or so, 3rd gear up to about 35, and then into 4th.
Once I hit about 40 mph I start to feel a heavy vibration in the footpegs. Seems to mellow out a bit around 50, and I haven't been over 55 since hitting the rock.

Also, I still am having the idle kicking up to high rpm all by itself, usually when cold. I have to play with the idle speed screw a lot until it fully warms up. But after a 30-40 mile ride, if I run in the store for 10 minutes and then ride again, it does it again, even warmed up. It's really weird, I think the slide may be sticking or some such thing. What gets me is when it's idling high, the exhaust sounds quieter, and the valves start rapping. Then all by itself, idle drops, exhaust sounds normal, and valves are quiet again.

I could go on, but I won't.  Shocked
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #18 - 11/10/11 at 22:55:09
 
Yea,, sounds like a carb problem,,but the hard noises in 3rd & 4th,, thats not a happy thing, Just make sure youre not upshifting & gunning it when its turning too slow to be happy with it.
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #19 - 11/13/11 at 06:21:45
 
i would pull it.... cause no matter when the engine blows it will screw up your day.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #20 - 11/13/11 at 06:48:43
 
Mine used to make a pretty ugly noise when I would shift up too soon & lug it.
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drums1
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #21 - 11/13/11 at 18:15:38
 
Dammit, I been riding it the last few days here, before winter sets in. When the carbs not acting up and it's running right, it still runs good and , for the most part, still sounds pretty much ok. I think I'm gonna do a reinforce job on the JB Weld and see how far she goes next spring.
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #22 - 11/13/11 at 19:50:00
 
rather than patch it, why not find an outfit that can tig weld aluminum? Weld the chunk back where it ought to be and weld the cracks closed. It'd be just as ugly, and a lot more stable than a JB patch. More expensive though.

Try looking for driveline shops. Most drivehsafts are mild steel but there are aluminum ones out there and someone's gotta weld them up.
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #23 - 11/13/11 at 23:25:09
 
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drums1
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Re: Advise: Pull motor or not?
Reply #24 - 11/14/11 at 09:04:19
 
Well, the thing there is, I already have it patched from last spring. I would have to chisel all the old JB Weld off to go that route. And then probably still pull the motor. Not sure it's worth going that far.
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