Silas,
go hard on the clutch pin material -- a case hardened ground roller bearing pin, not a softer dowel pin. You can use easier to find 1/4" materials instead of 6mm materials, just so they are
full hardened and you don't soften them up grinding on them, etc.
Verslagen mentions the counter-intuitive nature of clutch parts wear, a lot of that seems to be the cable stretching and the clutch pins wearing causing things to seem to go "backwards" as far as plate wear would indicate.
Me, I used a .250" M2 round lathe bit that I had left over from a lathe tool bit kit from my minilathe -- for some odd reason it is holding up very very well indeed ....
... like mebbe because it is a freakin' steel cutting bit that still cuts normal steel when it gets low red hot due to cutting friction? Nothing in our clutch system is ever going to phase that piece of M2 rod I really don't think ...You want your actuation lever on the side of the clutch case to be as low in position relative to the marks as you can coax it to being, while still allowing some actuation motion freedom on the actuation lever.
You don't want to put the push rod into a bind when you compress the gasket when tighten the side case up with all them little bolts.
Pages: 1
