SuzukiSavage.com - The Project: Phase 3

justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: The Project: Phase 3 Reply #60 - 05/28/11 at 07:29:57 Stainless wire would ( I suppose) be available from a mechanic at an airport. Id bet I could get a few feet for cheap that way. If aluminum would do it, thats easy. Electric fence wire, the cheap stuff, is usually albumium..
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verslagen1

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Re: The Project: Phase 3
Reply #61 - 05/28/11 at 09:35:13

MotoBuddha wrote on 05/26/11 at 14:33:23:

Does anyone know if it's okay to grind down this spot weld smack in the mouth of the exhaust pipe?

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/8b2b94f6.jpg

Or is it precisely engineered air flow optimizer? Grin

I think it was JOG that cut out the center pipe and left the shell.
He'd be the person to ask if it was.

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CalisOsin Senior Member Offline Rather die, than live down on my knees. Posts: 297 Orange County, Ca Gender:	Re: The Project: Phase 3 Reply #62 - 05/28/11 at 16:43:09 Moto - when you got that cam, did you have to send in a core part? Also, is there anything special you need to do with that new cam after/during install?
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MotoBuddha Serious Thumper Offline Let's roll! Posts: 1416 Charlotte, NC	Re: The Project: Phase 3 Reply #63 - 05/28/11 at 17:43:37 Yes, you send in your old cam and they re-profile it. I don't think there's anything special on the installation. Just the usual.
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justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: The Project: Phase 3 Reply #64 - 05/29/11 at 01:20:38 It comes w/ Cam Lube & the cam needs ( IIRC) around 15 minutes of low RPM operation to break it in.
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MotoBuddha

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Re: The Project: Phase 3
Reply #65 - 05/29/11 at 08:46:58

I have things stripped down enough to install the new cam chain. I don't have the slot and hole at the bottom of the case blocked off because I want to give Oldfeller the willies. Grin

Here's the new chain soaking in oil.

One question, though. The center of primary drive gear sticks out more on one side than the other. I went through the Clymer manual hoping to learn which way the gear is supposed to go back on. No luck. I'm guessing the side that sticks out more faces inward to give clearance for the cam chain. Yes? No? Beuller?

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justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: The Project: Phase 3 Reply #66 - 05/29/11 at 08:51:12 If you know which way the mating gear goes on its shaft,,, well,, you get the idea. You can also slip it on & see if the cam chain conflicts with the short side inside. Im betting youre right about that tho, Or, you can wait on one of the guys who has been in their engine so many times they just know..
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MotoBuddha Serious Thumper Offline Let's roll! Posts: 1416 Charlotte, NC	Re: The Project: Phase 3 Reply #67 - 05/29/11 at 08:53:29 I guess the other way to figure it out would be to slip it on, replace the clutch assembly, and see if the two gears align properly.
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MotoBuddha Serious Thumper Offline Let's roll! Posts: 1416 Charlotte, NC	Re: The Project: Phase 3 Reply #68 - 05/29/11 at 09:08:08 And the answer, Ladies and Gentlemen, is: long side facing in, short side facing out.
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Re: The Project: Phase 3
Reply #69 - 05/29/11 at 11:12:25

So, I needed to tighten the big nut on the clutch assembly. Even though I had a strip of aluminum jammed between the clutch and primary gears, the center shaft wanted to turn because the clutch plates weren't grabbing. No surprise, since the springs and the plate that holds them down were off. Ah, but I had an idea. I found four 1/2" flange nuts in my spare fasteners bin, slipped the spring bolts through them and used them as washers to compress the springs. Presto, the clutch plates grabbed enough to let me torque down the nut. Mmmmm, I love the click the torque wrench makes.

(Just to be clear, the 1/2" nuts came off once I got the big nut torqued down.)

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« Last Edit: 05/29/11 at 16:11:56 by MotoBuddha »

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justin_o_guy2

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Re: The Project: Phase 3
Reply #70 - 05/29/11 at 14:45:23

If I were you, I wuld give some real thot to having a clutch throwout paddle machined. Factory design is weak, youve made its job harder, look closely at the part, it has a square 90 degree angle near the center, right by the rod that twists it. It is just begging to break, It nees to be out of billet & not cast & it needs a radius where the 90 is.

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MotoBuddha Serious Thumper Offline Let's roll! Posts: 1416 Charlotte, NC	Re: The Project: Phase 3 Reply #71 - 05/29/11 at 16:08:32 After sufficient wrestling and swearing at the piston rings, I managed to get the new 97mm piston into the bored out cylinder. It would have helped to have had the proper tool and an extra set of hands. Tomorrow I'll anneal the copper head gasket and get the head, new cam and the rest of the top end installed.
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Re: The Project: Phase 3
Reply #72 - 06/01/11 at 16:51:56

Over in the tech section is a discussion about converting to chain drive. When you do that, you need some kind of spacer to compensate for the front sprocket being narrower than the pulley. One guy took a spare sprocket and turned it down. Others used washers they found at the hardware store. Since I don't have a lathe or easy access to one, I went the washer route. The one I found at the hardware store wasn't metric so it was loose on the countershaft. I wouldn't want it to work its way off center and cause a vibration. So I went online and found the correct metric size. In stainless steel, even. Using two makes for the perfect thickness.

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Re: The Project: Phase 3
Reply #73 - 06/01/11 at 17:02:43

MotoBuddha wrote on 06/01/11 at 16:51:56:

Over in the tech section is a discussion about converting to chain drive. When you do that, you need some kind of spacer to compensate for the front sprocket being narrower than the pulley. One guy took a spare sprocket and turned it down. Others used washers they found at the hardware store. Since I don't have a lathe or easy access to one, I went the washer route. The one I found at the hardware store wasn't metric so it was loose on the countershaft. I wouldn't want it to work its way off center and cause a vibration. So I went online and found the correct metric size. In stainless steel, even. Using two makes for the perfect thickness.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/161297f3.jpg

PLEASE PLEASE post that source!!!

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MotoBuddha

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Re: The Project: Phase 3
Reply #74 - 06/01/11 at 18:38:03

thumperclone wrote on 06/01/11 at 17:02:43:

MotoBuddha wrote on 06/01/11 at 16:51:56:

Over in the tech section is a discussion about converting to chain drive. When you do that, you need some kind of spacer to compensate for the front sprocket being narrower than the pulley. One guy took a spare sprocket and turned it down. Others used washers they found at the hardware store. Since I don't have a lathe or easy access to one, I went the washer route. The one I found at the hardware store wasn't metric so it was loose on the countershaft. I wouldn't want it to work its way off center and cause a vibration. So I went online and found the correct metric size. In stainless steel, even. Using two makes for the perfect thickness.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/161297f3.jpg

PLEASE PLEASE post that source!!!

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1306968004

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