Run In Results:A 1/2" 2hp 1,000 rpm industrial drill was attached to the alternator bolt through the cover hole and the drill was run in reverse to power the crank rotation during the oil fill and oil pressure run in.
The first glass full of oil up through the top cam bearing journal passageway was collected and found to contain tiny tiny tiny strands of a dark filmy material -- supposition is that it came off the walls of the oil passages as the oil ripped up through them. This stuff would just go on through the system and perhaps be stopped by the filter on the return trip (no real concern for this item).
Running the engine at normal idle speeds (1,000 rpm) took 27 seconds to fill the oil filter cavity and all the passages up with oil to the point oil exited the clear tubing to start to fill the glass. A normal tea glass took 14 seconds to fill 3/4 full of oil.
OIL VOLUME ACCEPTABLE as this amount of oil cannot possibly go out through the cam bearing gap clearances at the normal pressures commonly seen at idle speeds. Back pressure will develop at this volume.
Passage was then attached to the oil pressure gage and the motor was run again at 1,000 rpm. Oil pressure wavered between 2 and 3 PSI which is a commonly reported situation on our bikes at idle speeds.
Oil used was Rotella Syn 5w40 weight, so I do not think these numbers would totally go away with a hot engine, but they would likely be lessened somewhat as the oil viscosity would go down some when hot. The pressure would go down and the volume would increase a tad using full hot oil.
The big industrial drill was put away and the engine was run with the starter motor for the compression testing so as to match normal testing methods. Compression testing was of course approximate as the piston rings were not seated to the freshly honed bore yet and the valves were likely somewhat sticky due to a lack of running for several years now. Still, 150 PSI was seen -- within the book service specs but at the low side to be sure. This would likely improve with motor run in, but it is good enough to consider the old motor serviceable.
I was struck by the amount of "huff" volume created by the big piston at 1,000 rpm as observed through the rotor timing hole. It is no wonder to me that we get oil in the airbox as the huff was moving oil in a fine spray about 2-3 feet. I am also wondering how much of the available power is consumed just pumping air back and forth inside the engine ....
================================
Engine will be stored with oil in it as it is not leaking any (interesting to see if this remains true over the years of storage that this engine may well see). All open intake and exhaust holes are blocked off with duct tape to keep the insects out. Engine will be stored at TDC on the compression stroke to keep tension off the valve springs and keep everything sealed up well with the valves. Intake and exhaust valves are sprayed with oil before sealing, spark plug threads lubed with never seize and for the life of me I can't think of anything else to do to it to aid in the storage other than wrapping the whole engine up well in a big plastic bag and storing it on a piece of plywood to keep the aluminum from contacting the concrete in the garage.
It's done folks .....