Thanks for all the help guys.

I still need the answer but I am almost out of time.
We having xmas work do, while I'm doing this in the back shed.

We have flattened the locking tab on the washer, and tried to do undo it left & right but it's not breaking and the pulley just keeps turning no matter what we try.

Yip did that justin, but belt just slipped as it turned.
We have to go home now, they locking the site up.

Can't even start the darn job, cause of this one darn nut.

I don't know if you have Impact Driver at your disposal, but thats what I used.  Just put it in first gear and the nut comes right off.  I just did mine yesterday as I did my teardown for my cafe project.  I made the mistake of removing the rear wheel before removing the drive pulley so that was really the quickest way for me to do it (rather than putting the swing arm an wheel back on just to take off a pulley).

Verslagen, Didn't notice you had posted torque values. And others. I've never done this. Just stating what manual says for information. Not trying to sound like I know what I'm doing. But my uncle taught me when I was a young'n you can do a lot with a block of wood and a hammer.  

Ok.  I got the job done yesterday.

Here is how it went and quite easy too.

Remove front pulley cover.
Undo bottom bolt on left hand suspension and lift suspension out of the way.
Remove belt guard.
Remove broken belt if it did not fall off when it broke.
Use this time to clean any build up of scum & dirt etc from around pulleys etc.
Put engine into neutral (This allows the pulley to turn freely for next step).
Use old belt around front pulley and clamp together with locking-pliers.
turn pulley until locking-pliers butt up against the engine cover.
Use a flat screwdriver or similar and hammer to tap flat the washer behind the 32mm nut on the front pulley as this stops the nut spinning off in a worst case scenario. (Why Suzuki put a nut on here that loosens the same direction as it drives I don't know)
Once washer has been tapped down flat, put bike in gear, put front wheel against a wall, then use a ratchet-gun with a 32mm socket and turn LEFT to loosen.
Once nut is off the washer will come off, followed by the pulley.
Fit new belt to front pulley and put pulley back on.
Note the washer has small notches that match the spindle the pulley goes on to.
Important - using screwdriver bend the washer back up.
Use ratchet gun to tighten 32mm nut back up (not too tight or you will over torque)
Now loosen the rear wheel bolt and slacken off the belt adjusters on either side (The adjusters may not need to be slackened off, but I felt it didn't make the job any harder)
Push, kick whatever you want the rear tyre in towards the direction of the handlebars as much as you can.
Now loop the new belt over the top of the rear pulley.
Once you have the belt teeth in the top of the rear pulley as snug as possible, straddle the bike, put the bike in neutral and slowly reverse the bike.
The belt will fit itself as you reverse.
Once belt is on give it a look over to make sure it is on correctly, then re-align the belt with the belt adjusters on either side of the bike.
Retighten up the rear wheel bolt & front pulley nut to the torque settings Verslagen1 mentioned earlier.
Put covers back on, (Also as I found out the hard way, when tightening the 3 bolts on the front pulley cover, do so very gently. I went only a little bit to far on the short top bolt and stripped the inner thread.)
Then the rear left suspension.
Tip here, get someone to lift the weight from the rear end when you refit the suspension as the bolt tends not to line up with the weight pushing down towards the wheel.

Check everything is back on, tight and no spares left over and your good to go.

just one thing max,in the book they reccomend using a new washer after the tab has been bent and rebent. Oh well next time huh ?

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 12/23/10 at 14:18:07:



i second that motion.