Where'd my gears go?    

Been a couple of weeks since I've been on her.  Took her out today no problem.  Put her in first, then neutral while I cranked up, put on gloves, helmet.  Pulled out of my place and got a few miles down the road when I noticed I couldn't get into first or neutral.  2nd gear is as far down as I can go.  The shifter is like it's in first.  Won't go down any further.

I think to myself "hmm better ask about this".  I turn around and drive home where I find I can't switch to 2nd!  Take a look at things and realize that the shifter isn't popping back up like it should when downshifting.  I have to raise it up a tad, it then clicks into place, and I can downshift.  I oil everything around there pretty good.  Maybe that will fix it once it seeps in.  

Still no 1st or neutral tho.      

Your gears are actuated by a rotating drum that has grooves in it that drive a pair of forks that move the gear clusters in and out of engagement.

You rotate the drum one click at a time up or down by driving a sprag actuator in a short linear stroke  with your foot.

That's your shifter.  

This is all explained starting at page 164 in Clymers.   Needless to say, proper adjustment is everything to this system for it to work correctly.  Clymers goes into good detail for what to check for wear, how to return the assemblies to proper tolerances and how to tune it as you put it back together.

Everything is accessible from the outside of the bike, the shifter control mechanism is actually fairly straightforward and simple.


The list has a long history of the shift rod getting bent and putting things out of time.

We also have a long history of the shift rod simply breaking off, so if you have a bent one consider replacing it rather than straightening it (especially if you straighten it once and it doesn't stay that way for long).

Good luck as you trace back through your issues.

It's down under your left foot. Connects shifter to tranny. Just a rod about 1/4 in dia. and 6-8 in long. Has nuts on both ends to adjust, I think.  

And remember -- one of those nuts on the adjustment rod (front one I think) is LEFT HANDED so righty tighty lefty loosey isn't gonna work for both of them.

It is a secret device to cause frustration to newbies to weed out those who should not have a savage from those who can learn to be a mechanic.
Actually the Savage is not near as strict in this sense as most older bikes and a few of the new ones.
For instance, Enfield, and Ural  come to mind.
The easier a machine is to work on the more work it will need during its' lifetime.  My Ural was very easy to work on and I logged about 4 to 5 hours of wrench in hand for every hour in the saddle.
The Savage is more like 1 hour of work for every 12 hours in the saddle.

Phelonius

That arm should move (with the linkage removed). Try to see if you have any in and out play. I think you may have to order a Clymer repair manual and get ready to get very intimate with your Savage. Chapter 6 pg. 169.