verslagen1 wrote on 09/19/10 at 10:09:21:

Copper is a contaminant to brake fluid and besides,it's only 12 bucks.

Lupo wrote on 09/19/10 at 22:31:47:



Funny, copper sealing washers are used on all brake line 'banjo' fittings, m/c & automotive.

thanks for the info on copper, must be quite a contaminate, as only the edge of the seals touch the fluid.  Another reason to change the fluid every couple of years.  

 
Yep, clear epoxy is good stuff for sealing off a brake fluid compartment if it is allowed to set thoroughly before being introduced to the alcohol and glycol that make up the brake fluid.

Key important part to fixing a leaking window is to take the master cylinder off the bike, use brake parts cleaner (acetone) to spray out the window recess really well, then pour the window recess solid with slow setting two part epoxy plumb full up to the level of the side.  

If the sight glass were cracked up all that badly, I'd bust it out totally until I had a simple aluminum sided hole -- then I'd rough up the hole some with sandpaper and spray it all out with brake parts cleaner and let it dry good.  

Then I'd get some clear plastic packing tape and smoothly put a piece over the outside of the window hole such that it had no wrinkles, etc.  

Then from the inside I'd pour it slam full of slow set clear epoxy and lay it on its side so the pool was flush with the inner surface or maybe even went out a little bit on the inner surface.

When it was 48 hours hard, it would be a nice new plastic window glass that was thoroughly bonded to the aluminum shell.

Just spoke with Don at New River Motorcycle Salvage and ordered my repair kit ($15.00 total cost). I gave him the info I had and basic measurements of window and outer ring.
He let me know he also has records on several models, etc.
He was very helpful and said he would have it in the mail the next day!
Once I get the kit I will post some pics of the before and after installation for anyone who is also considering this fix.

My bike was honestly a beater when I bought it 2 years ago and am just now getting serious about fixing some of the problems with it.
So far I have repaired a broken header/exhaust clamp bolt, this one had me worried since I had to drill out the old piece...went much better than I expected..when I got the bike, it had aftermarket pegs on and the left peg was loose and basically useless, (had to drive it approx 30 miles home and a few trips w/no left peg) it took awhile to get the old left one off, but replaced both pegs, and they are very functional.. replaced grips..The entire header was covered in rust, cleaned..replaced left rear turn signal assy..both mirrors.. new tires..
new brakes..the left cover had already been adapted to allow access to spark plug, but of course I didn't realize that until I had taken tank off! complete tune-up done..and numerous rusted bolts, screws, etc.
My next project is to recover my seat and back pillion, modified for my taste and size (bike as is is much too short for my height)..and new muffler, still has original and is rusted out in a few spots..
Anyway...will keep those interested posted on master cyl fix as soon as I receive it.

OK...well, my master cyl fix started promising, i ordered my kit on tues and Don had it to me on friday. the glass was just a lil bit too small and was enuff that i couldnt get a good seal. when you're dealing with approx's must be expected at times.
Contacted Don, and he is going to recut and send a new one out. i took pic's of the process, but want to wait until i get new glass and installed before i post.
on that thought...in the interim, my need to be back on the road prompted me to do an interim fix using a dime...a 1986 Liberty.
trimmed down the edge and used Permatex Ultra-Grey rtv to seal...
still waiting for it to cure...and i must say, i really like the look.
will post pic's of this fix once i know it works (sealed). whew...

All you need is a piece of hose, preferably clear, 3/16" by about 5' long. Put it over the end of the bleeder screw, slightly open the screw & hold the other end in the fluid in the m/c. Slowly stroke the lever while keeping the hose in the fluid & you can see the air bubbles work there way out.
This is the fastest, easiest way I've found to bleed the front brake when starting with a 'dry' system.
I've always maintained my own bikes, 45 years now & none have ever been to the dealer.