Check a float for leaks, put in in freezer for an hour or so, then submerse in warm soapy water.
Excess cold air in the float will expand and exit as it warms up, making bubbles you can see as it exits the hole it entered by. PULL THE PART OUT OF THE WATER JUST AS SOON AS THE BUBBLES SLOW DOWN -- it is getting ready to suck water inside as soon as the bubbles stop.
Mark the leak locations with a sharpie pen.
Float can be dried in a warm 100 degree oven (not hotter if float has plastic in it) or put over a heat vent for a week or so to get the water out of it.
You have to get all the gasoline and or water out of it .....
You can get a float to puke out internal water by chilling it in the fridge then orienting the water "down" over the hole and warming the body pf the float with a hair drier (be gentle here, don't melt your plastic float !!!) Expanding air will force the water out the hole -- repeat several times until all the water is out.
Use 2 part clear epoxy to seal the float up, then check it for leaks to find out if you got all of them.
A repaired float will require float height adjustment (the total weight has changed).
$80 with shipping, I'd at least try to fix it !!! What do you have to lose, some time?
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Ours looks like a sheet brass float. Solder joints are tough for non-soldering people to fix -- use the 2 part epoxy trick to reseal it.
You can heat your float up to 212 degrees F to get the water out of it, don't go much higher as you will melt the solder and the whole thing will come apart on you (ask me how I know this ...
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