Right on,
So why do some report that they slide right on ?
And if the adapter has to be made, ain't that moving the muffler back,....causing other mounting problems ?

I ain't ready for that. I'm kinda finiky too, if I have to "jury rig it, (am I allowed to say that ?) I ain't doin it !

Babyhog does your muffler leak.

I bought a Dyna for my '96 and it required no alterations, welding or adapters.  It bolted directly onto my Savage bracket.  The Savage heat shield bolted directly over the Dyna.  Nothing is out of line or crooked.  I used cut up aluminum can to use as shim stock and wrapped it around the header pipe where it fits into the mouth of the Dyna.  The shoulder on the header pipe does not butt up against the mouth of the Dyna.  There is a gap of 5/16" between the mouth and the shoulder.  I used the Harley clamp that came with the Dyna.

The problem with the Dyna is that it appears to come in more than one configuration.  The Harley numbers on the side of mine are:
64941-01.

This Dyna has been on my bike for 2 years, and I've had no problems with leakage or it coming loose.  It took about 30 minutes for me to install it, and it was an easy install.  The difference between the way the Dyna in the picture posted by Siriusjoe fits, and mine, is that the shoulder in mine is only 5/16" from the mouth of the Dyna sleeve, and the Savage pipe fits straight into the Dyna, not crooked.

Arthur wrote on 03/15/10 at 08:28:21:


I don't see how that's possible.   Did your stock muffler have this angle on it?





Arthur wrote on 03/15/10 at 08:28:21:


Did your stock header have this sleeve already on it?  My '06 does, and it's not removeable.   It's 1.72 O.D.




Arthur wrote on 03/15/10 at 08:28:21:


That's the same muffler I have.

There must be something about the later model S40's that's different from the old Savage.

Joe

siriusjoe wrote on 03/15/10 at 09:48:58:



Yes, to both of your questions.  Here are 2 pics so you can see how the installed Dyna slightly angles back in towards the frame, at the rear of the bike:

Arthur wrote on 03/15/10 at 12:11:08:


Thanks for the photos Gort.  The only way I can get this thing on is to force the end of the header way over to the right.  I have to put so much pressure on it that I'm afraid of breaking the studs out of the cylinder head.   When I do this, the muffler goes on and it looks like this.  Does this look about right to you?  Should I be worried about putting so much stress on the header pipe?

SJ you are close but not quite there yet.  I ran into the same problem of the header pipe being a tight fit.  I got to where you are, and seeing the problem, made sure the muffler bracket was lined up with the Savage bracket, and then used a Magic Marker to make locater marks on the mouth of the Dyna muffler in relation to the the Savage pipe.  I then removed the Header pipe from the Savage, and placed both it and the muffler on the work bench.  Carefully bracing the header pipe from moving or bending, I re-aligned the muffler in relation to the pipe, using my locater marks.  Then, using a piece of 2X4 behind the muffer's rear exhaust outlet, I hit the 2X4 with a hammer, driving the muffler onto the header pipe ( using Pepsi can aluminum as a shim around the header pipe.).  I kept checking the alignment of my marks, and watched to be sure that the muffler inlet went over the header pipe in a straight manner.  I was able to tap the muffler onto the header pipe until the header pipe shoulder was within 5/16" of the muffler mouth.  I then clamped it tight with the Harley clamp that came with the Dyna.  Then I very loosely bolted the assembly back onto the bike, first to the Savage bracket.  I then bolted the header pipe back to the engine firmly.  I then tightened the muffler to the Savage bracket, and then put on the heat shield.  

It may be that part of the reason some members need to use spacers between the Savage frame bracket and the Dyna; or tweak one of brackets; is because of minor variances in the bracket locations from one frame to the next.  Remember, this bike frame is no precision item.  You're not dealing with a wristwatch here.  There may well be minor variations from one frame to another, in any low end assembly line product, like this one.

Well I know what I would do w/o question, I'd grab the cutting wheel, cut 2/3 thru whichever side of the pipe had to close up to line up, relieving any risistence, then grab the mig and weld it up. I would never be forcing,....knocking it on w/ a hammer etc etc ! You will just be asking for trouble somewhere down the line, all the while hoping the studs don't break out of the head, or worse.
And I'm not mechanically challenged either, been down too many of these roads before.