http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1256079122Here is the current detailed trip inside the motor.
Here are the gotcha warnings:
Hit it with the hose and then reinspect to see you really got all the crap out of there.
OK, you are good. Trundle the bike back into the garage and put it up for the night -- it needs lots of time for all that water to evaporate before you proceed any further.
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GREETINGS EARTHLING -- THIS IS THE FUTURE SPEAKING TO YOU.
It is now at the end of the job and we wish we had done this differently, so we are sending you this message into the past in hopes it keeps you from screwing up or doing it wrong like you already did -- so pay attention !!
=======================Hindsight Section:
Any time you do a major job you have things you wished you had done differently. So here they are as they come up to my mind.
1) Cleaning up the spark plug area for embedded sand grit. I originally used engine cleaner and then had to go back after it with brake cleaner later on. Brake cleaner is acetone in a spray can and it can cut the baked on oil/sand crap MUCH FASTER & better than the engine cleaner did.
I think I did the order of the things backwards, I should have started with the brake cleaner (fast, effective - but temporary) to fast dissolve the encrusted oil, and then hit it with the engine cleaner before the brake cleaner had completely evaporated, this would have suspended all the dissolved crud in the fast disappearing brake cleaner.
(brake cleaner goes away fast, but the thicker engine cleaner does not evaporate much at all).
All the fast acting advantage gained by the brake cleaner would have been transferred over to the engine cleaner which then would have continued removing even more of the crud.
I should have paid a lot more attention to the hidy-hole behind the spark plug == a lot more attention. Then the hard hitting water blast could have flushed ALL the sand away on the first cleaning session instead of making me do two different clean ups.
Ya gotta get all the sand out of all the pockets and hidy-holes or you may wind up with some down inside your cylinder. 2) Brake cleaner (acetone) is neat stuff, but it isn't neat for cleaning the clutch cover. The clear plastic oil level window is fogged by it. It can likely get fogged by most carb cleaners too. Engine cleaner may not fog it, but I can't say that for sure because I didn't use engine cleaner on mine. (Yep, I fogged mine up). You might try hot soapy water in your wife's sink ....
3) When you work on your clutch rod don't try to take 100% all of the "wear" out of the system. You do want a little stressed motion left in the system to release the clutch pack. This is hard to judge because of all the free motion slop that exists in the squared off flat/round junction that actuates the little powdered metal eccentric piece.
4) Assembly lubes on the cam are neat & necessary, as is the Web Cam anti-friction moly coating they leave on the cam itself. So are all the solvents you used so freely during the rebuild. Just remember to change your oil after the first hour or so of use to GET ALL THAT CRAP OUT OF YOUR ENGINE BEFORE IT TOASTS YOUR CLUTCH PACK !!!
5) I sprayed brake cleaner (acetone) on my clutch pack when cleaning the cover surfaces.
The fiber discs absorbed the acetone and thinned out the oil that was originally in them, causing the clutch to lose oil viscosity and "stiction". The clutch slipped for 3 days but then repeated heatup cycles and oil flowing through the clutch itself stabilized the situtation and my clutch returned to normal function. Scared me good, but had no lasting bad effects other than that.