srinath wrote on 10/23/09 at 13:00:33:OK how much for that manx in the background.
Cool.
Srinath.
The Manx look-a-like belongs to a customer. It's one of the nicer ones i've worked on in the last few years. Next week, I'm supposed to have a VW trike coming in that needs to be wired. It has a type 3 engine & automatic trans, the first trike I've seen with that combo. It should be way easier to drive than the 4 speed versions I've worked on. I will post some pictures once it is here.
Justin, I think I live in "the Rust Capital of the World". Over the last 30 years I've probably used a drum of Ospho.
I've also tried every other kind of rust converter on the market. POR15 works best but is a PITA to use. I live about 1/4 mile from the gulf & everything rusts here.
I've tried the 'special' paints & they don't hold up as well as plain old Krylon. My 2000 Savage, I pulled the tins, treated the undersides with rust preventer, sealed with bedliner paint & after 3 years the rust had came through it any way. Now, I just clean it up, spray it with a converter, & use the Krylon. WHEN the rust comes back, I just touch it up & go on.
In the past, I would just sell my old Savage for $1200-1500 & find another for $2300-2500 & start over.
I used to work on boats & even the stainless trim would rust. On one, my boss had us clean it with steel wool. Looked great for about a week, then the 'dust' from the steel wool rusted & left a bigger mess than we started with. Now I use stainless steel wool to clean things. I also have a set of the Kobalt stainless tool boxes & they rust too. Only high $ stainless doesn't rust here. :'(
Of course, maybe I'm doing something wrong & need someone to come down & demonstrate the proper way to apply the product. I can supply plenty of rusty items for you to show me the error of my ways.
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