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How much oil should be in the head cap? (Read 245 times)
Mattdw
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Re: How much oil should be in the head cap?
Reply #15 - 09/18/09 at 20:34:36
 
verslagen1 wrote on 09/18/09 at 20:33:08:
Mattdw wrote on 09/18/09 at 20:17:43:
verslagen1 wrote on 09/18/09 at 08:50:57:
BTW, remove the head nuts and oil the threads before torqueing them.


I wanna make sure I understand....REMOVE the head nuts before re torquing ?
Can I get to them all (how many?), while the engine is in the bike ?

Obviously, you don't have a service manual.  You really need to get one.  There are several steps that you need to follow in order to get to the head nuts.  And you'll cause damage if you don't follow them.


I do actually have one...sorry, just not looking at it at the moment.
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verslagen1
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Re: How much oil should be in the head cap?
Reply #16 - 09/18/09 at 22:01:57
 
great, look in the maintenance section towards the back if you got clymers, you'll see a pic of the head with 4 arrows around #110.  find the paragraph and start reading.
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grandpa
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Re: How much oil should be in the head cap?
Reply #17 - 09/19/09 at 05:30:13
 
The way I do the decomp solenoid is to stand beside the bike looking at the solenoid. Reach under it and squeeze it to push the shaft out the center of the solenoid. That is where you measure it. Can't remember the measurement off the top of my head. The cable that pulls the cam to open the exhaust valve will stretch over time, not opening the exhaust valve enough and causing strain on the starter and battery. Took me a while looking at both the Clymer's and the service manual to get it. Neither one has a good description, just do it!!
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Re: How much oil should be in the head cap?
Reply #18 - 09/19/09 at 14:26:07
 
I read you guys saying the plug is made of rubber? The valve cap doesn't get hot enough to burn rubber? If it doesn't, has anyone thought about trying to use "Baitwell Plugs" as used on boats? They have means of internally tightening the fit in the hole..... and some sort of sealant could be used as a backup> Gene
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Digger
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Re: How much oil should be in the head cap?
Reply #19 - 12/09/09 at 21:33:38
 
Mattdw wrote on 09/18/09 at 07:10:08:
....Also, some of the bolts I took off the head cap were difficult to get to, so I had to use a variety of my tools. I KNOW I won't be able to get to all of them with my torque wrench when putting back on.....


Yep, there are several head cover bolts you probably can't get a torque wrench on.  Yet, I think proper torque of ALL of the myriad head cover bolts is fairly critical if you don't want an oily mess.

You need to be creative in inventing a few different torque adapters.  You will find that you can torque each and every one of the head bolts.

Here are just a few of the ones I've come up with over the years:








You'll need to perform a few measurements and apply a little math.....nothing any biker can't handle.
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ero4444
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Re: How much oil should be in the head cap?
Reply #20 - 12/10/09 at 15:21:45
 
those arrangements look pretty funny, but actually my physics instinct tells me that torque is the same throughout the rigid assembly.  So no math should be necessary, if the stress on the bendy bar makes the pointer indicate 10ft-lbs at the 3/8" square drive, then the torque is also 10ft-lbs at the closed-end-wrench.  Which is kind of a cool effect.

But I'll have to ponder a while to be sure.  Why didn't you mention this 25 years ago right after I took Dynamics class?

EDIT: oops - Digger must be right about requiring math.  Longer arm, less force required, bar doesn't bend as much.  doh
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« Last Edit: 12/11/09 at 04:04:38 by ero4444 »  

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justin_o_guy2
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Re: How much oil should be in the head cap?
Reply #21 - 12/10/09 at 19:00:00
 
grandpa wrote on 09/19/09 at 05:30:13:
The way I do the decomp solenoid is to stand beside the bike looking at the solenoid.


Reach under it and squeeze it to push the shaft out the center of the solenoid.

( Were you ever the guy who did the physicals for the football team?)


That is where you measure it. Can't remember the measurement off the top of my head. The cable that pulls the cam to open the exhaust valve will stretch over time, not opening the exhaust valve enough and causing strain on the starter and battery. Took me a while looking at both the Clymer's and the service manual to get it. Neither one has a good description, just do it!!

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